Tuesday, January 1, 2013

Sol Cayo Santa Maria 2004

Since this will be the third review we’ve done of the Sol CSM, it’ll be brief. But I will cover those things I think are of importance to people (i.e. of importance to me!) again where I think it’s justified.

Where I don’t cover something (as with a description of the beach or the wonderful bathrooms) it’s because I have already done so and not much has changed.

Speaking of the beach, the clothing-optional section is still in operation. An unusual and much-appreciated option! s h y /hearts / pink

A general comment first: this spot is our current favourite. After 15+ years and 30+ trips to Cuba, most to the Jardines del Rey region, we find our ‘fave’ changes every few years for a variety of reasons (sometimes nothing to do with the resort itself, just our need for a change). But we have walked away from places that have deteriorated, so we’re not mindlessly attached to any particular resort.

Now some slightly more focused comments…but not very.

STAFF

The staff, as always, are great. No need to expand on that for those who have been to any Cuban resort, so I won’t. I’d just like to single out for special mention Elsa, the bartender (off Weds.) at La Picua, the beach grill. Great pina coladas from scratch, and it’s nice to see somebody about my age working a resort. Young is energetic perhaps, but a little older is better to talk to. Or should I say it's easier to talk when one isn't possessed by a perceived need to suck up one's gut??? B i g  G r i n

Eli, the former bartender at the Cuban Club has been (temporarily) demoted to bussing at the buffet restaurant. Rumour has it the weekly ‘salute/goodbye’ parties he used to host got a little out of hand (in a nice way…they just ran late etc.). Too bad as they were a hoot. His parrots are safe and sound and awaiting their return from his home.

The Sunquest/Alba rep is Jose Carlos. He was our rep when we traveled here via Air Canada Vacations a couple of years ago. Always helpful, a great fixer, and he used to be staff at the Sol, so he knows it inside and out. Happy to arrange things well beyond his job description too, so use him for car rentals etc.

A RANT

I always say this and wish I didn’t have to: I’m continually amazed by the number of people who don’t tip (‘gifts’ or cash). Even just a little something at the end of a visit. And from the reaction to the odd baseball cap or toothpaste I would say the gardeners and maintenance staff hardly ever see a thing.

Soap, toothpaste and even things like insulated coffee mugs got big responses this year. Pens were also popular.

THE RESORT

The resort has received two face-lifts of differing kinds since we were last there.

First is a minor bit of painting, re-decorating etc.
A freshening. Nothing major, but the place looks new after 5 years in service, so a good thing all around. The most major change is the addition of more roller windscreens here and there.

The nice thing about the age of the place is that the vegetation is mature. The place feels cozier than it did. There’s so much veg around it’s almost as if you’re out in the country rather than walking between buildings.

Second is an upgrade to the service. Not that it was ever bad, but you’ll notice, if you’ve been before, more formal presentations of food and drink, fancier dress for the serving staff, better and new linen on the tables, that kind of thing. More notes and fancier towel sculptures from the room cleaners. Grounds keeping that looks like former manicurists are doing it.

The food is a tad fancier at the a la carte restaurants as well, and the presentation has been upgraded a bit too I think. We’re not fans of Cuban food (too bland) so we only ate at the Creole place twice in two weeks.

We much preferred La Fontanella (due for a name change we understand). It’s no longer Italian, but now international. Very nice food indeed. And when not full happy to accept walk-in guests.

The staff there, especially Ramon the Captain, were wonderful. They arranged, on very short notice, a special birthday dinner for both halves of one of the couples we were traveling with. Much fun.

If there’s a problem with La Fontanella it’s that the staff will bring a second helping of cheesecake if asked…

An upgraded wine list is available, though you will be asked to sign for an extra charge to your room. Ditto certain premiums brands of booze (Moet&Chandon, single-malts of various kinds etc.) at both the restaurants and at the lobby bar.

The beach grill was great. They use a real BBQ so there’s none of the greasy fried stuff we’ve started to see at some resorts.

The Cuban Club now serves single-serving pizza along with the usual burgers etc. (which we didn’t try). They rank up there with endless cheesecake as a good bad idea, if you get my drift.

The bars
now have both Cristal (a standard) and Buccanero (my fave) on tap. Down with Carribeano!!!


The evening shows - Readers of my previous reviews and comments on Geri’s reviews (dare I call you our readers??? Ahh…a little ego goes a long, long way…) will know I am not a fan of the evening shows. I’d rather read, talk, drink, walk or swim at night. And on those occasions when I feel like tripping the light fantastic, the disco doesn’t open until the show is done and by then age and sunstroke have overtaken me and I am usually abed.

But I must say that with the exception of one silly attempt at juvenile ‘relationship’ quizzes for audience participants, that kind of thing, all vaguely off-colour and embarrassing more than funny, they were much improved over past efforts.

Stick to the song and dance routines; forget the attempts at titillation would be my advice.

On the other hand, many seemed to enjoy it, so who am I to say?

Oops. I had forgotten: I am right, they are wrong. Away with the tasteless titillation, in with another evening of music and dance…or mebbe a night off with an early disco opening???

Actually, the latter not a bad idea. 'Disco for Foggies' night or some such thing. Understandably the dancers need an evening or two a week off...a chance for Grandpa Derek to pogo like he usta... P a r t y   H a t

The same musicians who performed in the evenings also cruised the restaurants in the evening. Very nice, and discrete, as always.

The buffet - We ate breakfast at the buffet and it was as always, with the upgraded service etc. mentioned above thrown in.

Dinner there once or twice, usually after a snorkeling day. Service noticeably and pleasantly more formal. Food improved as well, with a substantial pasta station (replacing the Italian menu at La Fontanella???), a roast meat station with ham one night, roast beef (including rare!!!) another, chickens on a third.

Steak pork chops etc. cooked to order at the grill stations. Deserts? I set a personal record of nine (9) pieces of cheesecake one night. We’d have been happy to eat there more often, but were having too much fun with the staff, more intimate atmosphere at La Fontanella.

Our best buffet review remains that for the Sol CG. But this was fine. The Sol CG had one advantage: proscuitto and smoked salmon at Christmas…

One small note: the ‘mansion’ at the west end of the beach (clothing-optional bit) is now up and running. $360 CUC if booked in Canada, $600 if you walk in looking for 2 bedrooms, dining room for 12, living room with all mod cons, cook and butler, private pool, great views, etc., etc.

That’s per day of course. If you’d like a review, perhaps we could pass the hat and have a Happy Face-off to choose one lucky soul to represent us all for a couple of days.

MINOR BAD NEWS

On the down side, the rooms inexplicably were built and remain without screens on the doors and windows. Regular fogging keeps the mosquitoes down, but it’s hard to sleep with the windows and doors open (though we did). And unpleasant if they’re open in the morning when the fogger zips past upwind of your room. A problem for us one morning as we were on the second floor for the first time (and loved it-the view not the pesticide).

Many guests seem to run their a/c just so they can avoid the mosquitoes. A retrofit might pay for itself in a year or two.

It is a continuing source of wonder to me that with 75% of the guests coming from Canada one can find every news channel there is save one from this country. It’s especially weird to find CNN. All delivered by Bell Expressvu, just to round out the lunacy of it.

If you speak French, you can get RDI headline news on TV5 in the morning around 8am I think. I stumbled on it on our last day (of course) and sat there for 30 minutes just soaking it up…yummy!

All in all, a resort we were happy to spend weeks at has gotten better.

EXCURSIONS

The only excursion we took was the daylong catamaran snorkeling trip. And we took it twice. Need I say more? Many fish of many varieties. Some new to us, especially a small bottom-feeding shark our guide called a ‘cat shark’.

We actually saw so many parrotfish we were quite blasé about them by the end of the first day.

Highly recommended and comes with the usual lobster lunch. Baseball caps much appreciated by the crew.

THAT'S IT

If I’ve missed anything I’ll just have to go back and get the info needed, so don’t hesitate to ask questions…
==================================================================
 "My update to our previous reports is minimal and is mostly about the Melia next door, so here goes...

As we had access to the Melia I used the gym there. I've posted some photos of the gym (and others of the spa etc. to go with Geri's report) on my photoblog at Flickr.com/dblackadder

the best hotel gym I've seen anywhere, bar none. I include in that comparison all the hotels I stay at for work purposes here in Canada.

Some will have noted (passed over might be a better way of describing it!) my complaints about most other resorts gyms. On doctor's orders I started attending gyms regularly some years ago and have found myself addicted. Don't feel up to par anymore unless I get to one at least a few times a week. So gyms are something I notice, even if they aren't the determining factor in a decision to go somewhere in particular.

The new Melia CSM gym has lots of cardio equipment, alll TechnoGym stuff, brand new. Lots of space between the machines. Treadmills, bicycles, rowing machine and two of the best stairclimbers I've ever used.

The weight room has top-of-the-line machines (TechnoGym again). Some of the stuff beats anything I've seen before and very little would be missing if you were to compare it to my YMCA or a commercial health club. And again, lots of space between stations.

And really big windows too, making for a steady breeze.

There's a central courtyard. Washrooms.

Roman bath theme to the place.

Outside there's more of the Roman effect with a statue in a colonnaded seating area.

Some spectacular tennis courts that include a ball launcher, shaded benches and even small bleachers for an audience.

Most unusual feature is the climbing wall. I didn't get a chance to try it out as I never had the time (you must get a safety harness first, get basic instruction), but there will definitely be a note on the experience after our next visit.

Back at the SOL, the only update I have to add is to the effect that all the fish pools have been re-stocked. So whomever visits between now and 3 February, please feed them (grab some bread after breakfast) and pass long my best! B i g  G r i n

T h u m b  D o w n One perennial complaint: there's still no Canadian news channel, despite the fact that 75% of the guests must be Canadian. If you work at it you can get the RDI feed to TV5 at 07:00 (as I recall), but that's it."

By Geri - Comments on general entertainment at SOL: (as reply to Justin)

"You will arrive on the Sat if you are going to the Melia and so you will have to wait until the following Friday night to get to go to the beach party at the Sol, but it is good fun and not to be missed. It immediately follows the show and the dancers lead you down to the beach for a big party at the beach Grill and dancing in the sand.

Also be sure to make your way over to the Flamingo bar at the far end of the Sol. It can be a lively place and has a hot tub and serves pizza and fries etc. There have been some good parties there.

have fun and get to know the entertainment staff. They will assure you have a great time and they are always looking to meet up with young people for fun.

Do not miss the volleyball in the pool. It's a hoot and the play will stop while you get a drink or take a sip. And you don't even have to be good."

Sol Cayo Santa Maria 2002


Part 1: Getting There!

As I mentioned yesterday we would deal with the flight 1st and then get on to the good stuff.

[Derek: I should add that I almost wish we could do this backwards. The flight bits were/are the worst. The resort experience itself was very positive, to the point where Geri and I are already talking about returning next year (our February trip is already booked elsewhere). DO NOT LET THE NASTY BITS BELOW TURN YOU OFF CAYO SANTA MARIA!! Read the whole report before making up your minds.]

FLIGHT:

We arrived at the airport about 4:20 am. The info provided contradictory information. It mentioned in one area that we should be at the airport 3 hours in advance of departure but in another part of the info provided it mentioned that the Air Canada ticket agents would be on the desks at 5:00 am. The desks were opened when we arrived and since we had prebooked our seats we were in no rush to get through the line. We had heard on the radio on the way to the airport that the 21st of Dec would be the busiest day of the year. We were very pleased to see that the lineups were not extensive and moved along quite quickly. The ticket agents were wearing buttons (I managed to get one) that read WELCOME Aboard our Inaugural Flight Winter 2002-03 Air Canada Vacations. Someone in the line said the flight was delayed by one hour and so would be leaving at 7:30 instead of 6:30 am. I confirmed that with the agent and she said yes, they had to tow a different plane over to our terminal as the scheduled plane had mechanical problems.

[Derek: I had checked with Air Canada the day prior to the flight about 15:00 and there was no word of any delay at that point]

We waited in the departure lounge until 9:15 when our flight finally took off. There was no offer of food or coffee and the lounge got quite crowded as other flights were leaving from the same area.

[Derek: I have always preferred Air Canada flights to just about anything with the possible exception of Air Transat’s first class. The seats give you far more room than any standard charter airline’s seats. The service is better and the food superior. And, unlike AT’s first class, it doesn’t seem to cost anything extra. On this flight the booze was free on the way down, perhaps because of the delay. I couldn’t say if that was true on the trip back as I wasn’t interested and forgot to ask for report purposes.]

It was an uneventful flight and we arrived in Santa Clara by 12:30 pm. It is a very small airport and certainly not equipped to deal with a large group of people. We got through customs and went to get our luggage and realized very quickly what a nightmare it was going to be.

There was one person unloading luggage and there was no carousal. Suitcases came out one at a time. There was a customs agent checking the bags behind the curtain and if there was a bag he wanted to check everything shut down, he came out front and waited until the person to claim the bag and then took him away to check through the bag. In the meantime no more luggage came out because he was not there to see it go through the x-ray machine. When he would finish with that bag he would go back outside and the bags would start again. It was very frustrating, because at the beginning, he was checking 1 out of every 5, or so it seemed. It was 2 ½ hours for all to get the luggage. You could not go outside in the meantime and for those who did go out they could not get back in. It was a very small area and so the one man who was taking the luggage off, had to line it up and people were stumbling and tripping over luggage to get to their own and then struggle to get it out past the other bags and the people still waiting for theirs.

There was no where that one could get a drink of water or use the facilities. They had set up a beer tent thing outside but we were unable to go out until you had all of your luggage.

[Derek: I had the sense that everyone was new with the exception of the Customs officer who was checking the incoming luggage. The Customs officer who wanted to look at my carry-on (I had a magnum of champers in it) was certainly just out of school as he was being checked by another officer and told what to ask me for etc.]

[Frankly, it was a terribly frustrating experience. Had we known in advance one of us could have stayed and waited for the luggage, the other (also known as the winner of the coin-toss!) could have gone outside and read a book, (from start to finish!) and had a beer in the sun. That would be my advice for any couple or groups travelling to CSM. Have a designated luggage-catcher and the rest of you head out to the beer tent.]

[A little advance warning would have made it a much more pleasant, or at least less annoying, experience.]

[And, to be fair, there are plans both to expand the existing airport’s facilities (it is designed for domestic flights to and from a medium-sized Cuban city) and to give CSM access to the airport at Cayo Coco...more on that later.]

Another solution that I would consider, especially if going for one week, is to have only carry on luggage. You are allowed one carry on and one piece of personal baggage. That could be a carry on that fits under the larger Air Canada seats as well as a nap sack. You would not then have to wait for luggage and could be outside and get a front seat on the bus. You would still have to wait for everyone else but at least you could have a beer and get a seat on the bus with the toilet.
There were 3 or 4 buses waiting to take us to the resort and only one of them had a toilet.

The authorities had arranged for a police escort for the trip to the resort. They went in front of the bus with sirens going and ordering all other vehicles over to the side so the busses could pass without slowing down.

[Derek: the escort was more important than you might think since the roads you travel on go through several small villages where the bus needs to be routed through side streets so that it can avoid corners impossible for a vehicle of that size. As well, the traffic on the main roads was fairly heavy and had we not had the escort, we’d have spent a great deal of time in line behind the odd horsecart waiting for the opposing traffic to let up enough for us to pass.]

[Perhaps most importantly, unless Cuban motorcycle cops are in some fundamental fashion different from motorcycle cops everywhere else in the world, the escort gives them all a chance to exercise their sirens and authority over the road! :-)]

The trip is 11/2 hours to the resort and it is an interesting ride. It goes through several towns and the causeway. We arrived at the resort about 4:30 and there was a welcome committee but not too many happy faces in the crowd. It made for a very long day. 12 hours from start to end.

[Derek: I felt sorry for the welcoming committee (a band and many of the staff) since all I wanted at that point was access to a toilet. I think I was no more than the third off the bus and I zipped right past the welcome. I don’t think there were many who stopped to enjoy the music and the greetings. There was a race to the toilets and those not lucky in that headed right for the front desk. I had a chance to see the welcome later and for another arrival, and in a better mood and with a less insistent bladder I would have found it warm and charming. I just hope that the look on my face when I arrived wasn’t as intense as the looks on the faces of those who came while I was watching. Kinda scarey to have those faces in a herd heading in your direction, to tell the truth!]

They served drinks and some food as well. I spoke with the Public relations the next day and she said it is quite discouraging when people arrive and they are so unhappy. I explained to her the delay and the lack of facilities and that people were concerned to get to the room and deal with the discomfort. She did ask what they could do to im prove but I said unless they could convince the airport authorities to increase the staff for the tourist flights, it would remain a problem until the airport grew into the tourist industry.

The flight home was less eventful as well as less stressful. The size of the airport is problematic because there is not room for everyone to wait once they are through customs and waiting for the flight. We were lucky that we were in the 1st bus and at the front of the line and able to get a seat outside on the patio. There were 8 tables outside and some standing room. At the small bar there were no tables and perhaps 8 stools. In the main lounge there were seats to accommodate perhaps 50 or 60 people.

There was a bathroom with 2 stalls and no toilet seats.

[Derek: On the up side, the snack bar had cans of Buccanero (not available at any resorts these days, but my favourite Cuban beer) at 70 cents a can (Cubans know how to price alcohol: cheaper at the airports where you need it more!). On the down side the ‘shop’ was more of a small counter. One couple we knew had deferred their planned purchase of 2 bottles of premium Havana Club to the airport and discovered the ‘shop’ had only one bottle of Mulatta Silver on sale. I advise buying your rum etc. at the hotel.]

The flight was about 1 hour late leaving but a good flight home. When we arrived at customs there were lineups to the door. It took more than an hour to get through customs. The good news was that our luggage was waiting for us when we got to the carousal. We managed to cause a delay however by forgetting one of our bags and had to wait for someone from customs to escort Derek back into the area to retrieve it.

[Derek: Ahem. Geri’s being kind. I was the one who forgot the bag. In my defence, it was the bag with the dirty laundry in it.]

[Yes, it seems that this trip, though thoroughly enjoyable in between flights, was doomed to be the trip from hell when it came to the travelling bit. In retrospect I am extremely happy we decided to defer any excursions until our next, longer, visit to CSM. Had we taken a bus tour I am sure we would have spent an afternoon in a ditch. Had we, as planned, rented a car to visit Santa Clara, I’m fairly confident we’d have come home in boxes. Our executor could have had the pleasure of dealing with Pearson’s luggage ‘system’ (I use the term loosely). :-)]

We were home by 4:30, another long day.

General layout,

Rooms are contained in 1 and 2 story buildings spread out from either side of the main lobby and administrative building. As you get of the bus and enter the lobby the front desk is to the right and the admin offices are behind it. The PR desk is right beside the front desk.

The lobby is quite long and has a sunken area with couches and wicker chairs with cushions. They are quite comfortable. At the end of the sunken area which is to the left of the entrance there is a waterfall that cascades down decorative tiles. At the end of the lobby is the Air Canada desk, then a walkway to the rooms.

[Derek: the lobby is quite comfortable and has what I call 'wind blinds' that keep the breeze out on the windiest of days. It's one of the few lobbies I found handy and comfortable for sitting around in with a coffee, the other being the TCC's 'Club side' lobby (but only on calm days).]

If you walk through the lobby toward the ocean the lobby bar would be to the left. It has tables and chairs as well as bar stools and is open 24 hours a day and drinks, water, coffee and snacks are available. It is called the Santa Maria Patio Bar.

To the right is the store with rum and soft drinks a few choices of crackers, and biscuits, as well as chocolate bars and coffee. They have some cigars but not a large choice. There are also some t-shirts and bathing suits and cover-ups.
Next is the beauty parlour, never saw anyone in there including anyone working, but didn’t ask.

Next to that was the disco. It is quite small but more than large enough for the size of the resort. It has a bar and tables and a dance floor. It also has a pool table. We never made it that late, as it doesn’t open till after the night show about eleven. We did talk to some people who attended and they said it was fun and they had dance contests.

Next in that direction was the buffet. Las Taguascos, more later.

From there, there are paths to the rooms.

In front of all these buildings was the meandering pool. It is similar to the pools at the Tryp. There is a pool bar in the centre but it is not a swim up. You must get out of the water to get to the bar. There are stools at the bar if you want to sit. There are deep and shallow areas in the pool. IT is quite large and there are many, many chairs. There were always chairs available no matter what time of the day you went to the pool. No one left towels in the morning as there was no need.

[Derek: there is one section of the pool whih is extremely shallow and which has a little 'island' in the middle with chairs on it. It's directly in front of the buffet restaurant - I know because I used it one day to cool off when for some reason the a/c in the buffet was off during breakfast!]

NOTE: towels were available from the activity centre, which is located across the pool from the buffet. The give you the towels with a voucher and you could change them daily. At the end of the week you turned in the towels and got a receipt to use at checkout.

Going straight ahead from the lobby with the pool on the right, the pool bar kinda overlooks the band shell where the nightly shows are held. It is a large area with a permanent stage and permanent light standards. There are rows of chairs set out to watch the show and you could watch it from the pool bar as well.

Walking to the left of the lobby bar the 1st bldg is the Piano Bar. It is a beautiful room with a bar and tables and comfy, whicker chairs. The orientation is held there and in the evenings a woman plays the piano. She is a great pianist and we enjoyed her each evening before dinner. Drinks, including wine are available. The building is surrounded by a pool with stones and flowers in it as well as a few gold fish. It is very pretty as well as relaxing.

[Derek: the thing I liked most about this room was that it was glass on three sides, though quite large. And the chairs were comfie enough to sit around in and read, enjoying the music at the same time.]

A little past the Piano Bar and to the right of the path is the baby club, well appointed with many colourful toys etc.

Next to that is the gym, which includes the massage room. The gym has a treadmill (not working) Derek went everyday and so I will let him describe the gym.

[Derek: It was better than the TCC's as most of the equipment was not only fairly new, but worked well enough. The more complicated (why do they buy these???!!!) mahines were predictably broken and not likely to be fixed for some time. But the simple (who needs more?) stair climber, the bikes and the weight machines all worked fine. There are lockers with keys and shower rooms. All clean and in good shape. One problem for those who like going to the gym mid-day: no a/.]

I had a massage on the Sunday to help me over the trip. It was fine. A cover was not provided and the massuesse was male. I do not have a modesty problem and he was professional but some may find it a problem. I was actually asked by someone if he covered you while he did the massage. It can be disconcerting if you are having a full massage. I would bring my towel and just use it if I were to have a full massage.

Across from the gym is the Italian Restaurant, La Fontanella. More later.

Behind the restaurant are the tennis courts, available for night use as well.

Then you are into the area of the rooms. There are paths to all of the areas of the resort and they are very comfortable to walk on even in bare feet. There are raised wooden walkways to the beach throughout the resort. There is a large stretch of natural vegetation between the rooms and the beach. It is quite a long but pleasant walk. For ecological reasons the area has not been disturbed during construction and will continue to be protected. There are no rooms on the beach but there are some with a view of the beach and the ocean. The entire resort is much less manicured and deliberate than the Cayo Coco sites. There are flowers that have been planted but it is a much wider look for the most part and it was deliberate.

There are a few more buildings I will mention for location purposes only at this time.

At the very east end of the resort on the beach is the dive centre. It is at the end of the rooms in the east and is reached via a wooden walkway. (More later)
East of the pool and situated on one of the walkways is the Los Cocos, Creole restaurant. (More later)

North of the pool and on the beach is the La Picua beach grill. It is very much like the Hemmingway’s Grill at the Tryp, that we loved so well. (more later)

Near the west end of the resort and towards the beach but actually amidst the rooms is the Los Flamencos Cuban Club. It is a fun bar with high tables and stool, a grill, a hot tub, lounge chairs, shade and sun.

The rooms are all 1 and 2 storey buildings built on pilings and so there are no rooms on the ground. This prevents any musty smell. The rooms are the nicest we have seen. The beds are very firm and comfortable. The rooms are decorated with a tropical theme. The wall to wall window allows maximum sunlight but the 3 layers of curtain allow you to choose the amount of light you want. It can be as dark as night if you wish a nap during the day.

Sliding glass doors lead to a large balcony with decorative wood framing around the perimeter. Our’s looked into a group of trees and shrubs that afforded us complete privacy from anyone walking on the paths. It was adjacent to the balcony for the room next door and was a bit of a problem given there was no privacy curtain between the balconies and if we were sitting on our balcony, we could not only see into theirs but into their room as well. I solved that problem by hanging our travelling clothesline from one side to the other and hanging the bedspread from it with safety pins. It worked very well and the maid left it there.

The room had a desk with 2 drawers, and a chair, a very large bench for the suitcase, a table and 2 rocking chairs. They were cushioned and very comfortable. There were also 2 bedside tables with 2 drawers each. It was a very comfortable large room and we loved it. It was well lit with several options. A ceiling light with a fan. 2 bedside laights, 2 lights above the desk and a floor lamp. There’s a large closet with 4 drawers built-in, plus a safe (no charge).

[Derek: the short hall from the bedroom to the bathroom continues past the bathroom and leads to a connecting door to the room next door. From talking to other guests I gather this is standard feature and a nice touch for those travelling either with kids or in a group. At other Cayo hotels you have to work at getting assigned some of the scarce connecting rooms.]

[I must say that I liked these rooms better than any other in the Cayos, even those on the ‘Colonial side’ of the TCC.. Geri didn’t mention this, but she has pretty severe allergies and inevitably in the tropics has had to put up with a reaction as part of the deal when we get the ground-floor rooms she prefers. The pilings on which these buildings sit give pretty much the best of both worlds.]

There was a fridge, that worked very well, in a cupboard with a TV on top.

[Derek: the fridge worked VERY well. The TV was more of an enigma than usual. There are no guests who are not flying in from either Montreal or Toronto. But still there’s no Canadian news channel available (in either language). Even more odd is that fact that the news channels we did get, indeed ALL the channels the rooms were provided with, were feeds from Bell ExpressVu! Drives me nuts! But on the up side, it’s a chance for the Happy Faces to flex their muscles again - when you go don’t forget to request Newsworld on your guest comment car!]

The bathroom was fabulous. Quite large with counter space. There was a tub and shower with a ledge around both sides. The unique feature was the picture window beside the tub. Wait till you see the pictures. You could see into the bathroom from our balcony but no one else had a view, due to the bushes and trees. Some of the rooms, though, had the balcony and bathroom facing the path. Thankfully there is a blind to pull down that offers full privacy.

[Derek: not that the blind was used all that often. As Geri has mentioned, we had a room which looked straight into a large clump of tress and bushes. Showering in the morning we were doing so basically in the middle of a picture window. Great way to check out the weather!!]

Towels are large and absorbent, (unlike in London England) and there were 3 sizes. No face cloth, so continue to take your own. No kleenex in the room. Maid service was as always excellent. We received notes from her wishing us a happy stay and a merry xmas. Our room was always done by noon. They are very thorough and we looked forward each day to see what she would do with the towels or the bedspreads. Sometimes she used a combination and she even did sailboat-on-ocean scenes and a house for us. An extra pillow was supplied, which I always appreciate. There were also 2 extra soft cuddly blankets in the closet.

[Derek: Geri’s shot at London hotel towels is due to almost a week we spent there as I had some meetings to attend about a week prior to us leaving for Cuba. The room we were in cost about $300 per day, wasn’t bigger than the bathroom we had at SCCSM, and towels which clearly made quite an impression on her! :-)]

The closet was off the bedroom in the hallway to get to the bathroom. It contained 4 drawers with a safe on top, (included) and lots of hanging space and 12 hangers. It was adequate for all of my stuff and that is saying a lot. Floors were tiled as was the balcony.

Excursions:

Snorkelling: there was an excursion available. Catarmaran for a day with 2 sites and lunch as well as a virgin beach. We didn’t do it.

We went and asked the dive center staff to take us out to the reef that was approx 1 mile down the beach and he told us we could book for the next day and if it was not rough he would take as many as 4 people out to the reef and guide us. We did that on Christmas Eve morning. It was a very good excursion. We were out for almost 2 hours. We followed him and he guided us through the reef. There were many fish and many channels and a lot to see. We saw a very large grouper, lobster, parrot fish and all the regular ones. He then allowed us to just look around ourselves.

[Derek: George (I think he was anglicizing Jorge for us) was the guide. Limited English but very helpful. I think the best snorkelling trip of its kind I’ve been on - and we’ve taken them all at least twice I think. Mostly because George/Jorge know the habits of the fish and lobsters on the piece of the reef he took us to and could point them out to us. I’d have missed several hiding in caves as well as one large cruising grouper. Oh, and one of the parrot fish Geri mentions was a Queen Parrotfish I think, a whopper and amazingly colourful.]

There was a Christmas Eve excursion to a nearby town that celebrates an historical battle between one side of the town and the other and it is only done every Dec 24th. There would be fireworks and a staged battle. We chose not to attend. Those that went said there were thousands of people there including many children who were free to run everywhere.

[Derek: we didn’t take any of the excursions. For my part I think by the second full day there I was starting to think we were enjoying the resort enough that we’d be back. I had arrived thinking I definitely wanted to rent a car and spend a day in Santa Clara, see the Che Guevara Museum and Mausoleum etc., but once we had decided to return, being there for only week made tanning and sleeping and reading our priorities.]

[Oddly, for reasons I won’t go into, it falls to me to say a few words about the daycare centre. It looked wonderful. Quite the best equipped I think I have seen with lots of climbing things an large toys that moved around and that sort of thing. It is well-situated with both an indoor area an a grassy outdoor bit and patio area for the toy cars etc to be ridden on. The staff seemed what you would expect and what I could never be in their jobs: cheerful, energetic, kind and unarmed. That’s the review for the purposes of you parents out there. For my purposes, what’s important is that the centre had a sturdy fence surrounding it and no toys equipped with sirens or other noise-makers. :-)]

Bits and Pieces:

New Resort:

They are in the process of constructing a Melia next door and they have many plans for future resorts in the area. We biked over to the Melia site and it is going to be quite large. 1700 rooms I think. We went the other way as well and there what looks like an old hotel site that is now accommodation for construction workers for the resort underway. They work for 20 days straight and then go home for 6 days. They expect many hotels to be built over the next few years. I would recommend anyone to go and see this idyllic spot prior to the rest of the world arriving. We quite enjoyed being at the Tryp the 1st year and watching all the changes and the new places being built. Everyone we spoke with was very happy with the resort. It was also a nice change to be at a small resort.

[Derek: Two bits I’d like to throw in. First is the Jacuzzi. There are about a half-dozen scattered around the resort. One as part of our favourite bar/grill, the one Geri describes. It was nice to grab a jacuzzi instead of a table, stretch out in the tub. A very nice touch I thought. The ones not in or very near bars are in more secluded, dare I say it romantic spots.]

[I’d also suggest that the place reminds me of nothing more than the TCC from 1993 on through say 1997 or 8. There’s a huge beach with very few rooms on it. There’s a down side to that (see our comments re the baggage capacity of the local airport!), but there’s also a big up side. The beach is scarcely populated, the reef has many more fish and fewer divers on it, the facilities are l new, the staff al fresh an enthused, and the guests who go there all have the feeling that they’re sharing a little secret amongst themselves.

Anniversary:

On the Sunday there was a celebration of the one year anniversary of the opening of the resort. There were presentations to staff for recognition of the special efforts for the previous year. Our Air Canada rep Jose, who previously was in sales received an award and I was there to take his picture. The entire staff as well as all of the bus drivers were invited to the event. There was punch and lots of food for everyone and a large cake to celebrate one year in business. The general manager spoke and Jose translated for him. Jose introduced me to the general manager, the VP, the sales manager and the security manager. I also met the Doctor who was in attendance. They had live music and put on a show as well. The band was internationally known and I have to apologize because I have forgotten the name but I do have a picture. We already have our pictures developed and we got them on disc so as soon as Derek figures out how to either set them up and post them or decide to e-mail them to D&B to post you will be able to see the resort as well as a lot of the staff and the band.

Entertainment:

The shows were well liked by everyone. The costumes were very good and they had some terrific dancers. A lot of them are very young, as are the staff. I did not see near as many animation staff as I am used to but they were playing volley ball in an area just off the beach and I noticed a net in the pool as well as a basketball net.

The activity centre had a pool table, a ping pong table and a couple of foozball (?) tables that seemed to be very busy. It was where the young adult kids seemed to hang out. As I mentioned it is just south east of the pool.

Tomorrow we will do the bars and restaurants and answer any questions. Oh yes, they now know all about happy faces and the front end staff have happy face key chains.

 Bars and Restaurants

Our favorite restaurant was La Fontanella, the Italian restaurant. It is much like the one at the Tryp in the early years. It serves fabulous pasta, the same great pizza, (crust a little thicker) same great taste. There are also a choice of appetizers. And for the mail entre there is a choice of beef, pork and fish. There is a desert cart and from the ohhs and ahhs from other guests and Derek’s reaction they are very good. The cart is brought to your table so you can see what you are choosing.

There is a limit of 1 visit and reservations are required.
Reservations must be made between 9:00 am and 3:00 pm at the activity center beside the pool. You must bring your passport to make your reservations and they make a note on the passport of the date of the reservation. Hours are 18:30 pm to 10:30 pm. The staff are efficient, friendly and attentive.

It is a fairly small space with approx 15 tables that the staff are happy to arrange for groups.

Your check in envelope contain a guest “Passport” which contains a map of the resort and all of the buildings numbered (other than the rooms). It contains hours of operation for the various restaurants and the “Hotel’s Regulations”. It also has a map of the area including the mainland.

[Derek: the passport Geri refers to above is the one which she describes below, not your real passport!

The Buffet restaurant was quite large and was never full. It is a very similar set up to the Sol at Guillermo. There are smoking and non smoking areas. It is bright and beautifully decorated. The staff are as usual very helpful, friendly and warm. They are well staffed and most of the staff speak at least 3 languages.

There is a station where staff made fresh juices each morning. (Derek’s favorite) There were a variety of juices available.

A bread station where they have discovered the miracle of making toast quickly.

A crepe/pancake station with various sauces and fruits to fill them or add to them. Cereal etc also found here.

There are 2 stations with chefs at the grills, for omelettes or your choice of eggs. A great time saver is the lack of long buffet where line ups happen. In front of each grill are 8 containers, kept warm and replenished frequently, of the usual breakfast food. Bacon, fries, various italian type meats, boiled eggs etc. It appeared to me that it was an efficient way to get everything you needed quickly.
2 coffee areas. Teas were also available.

Cheese stations with the usual variety.

All in all it was a very good set up and there was always good food available.
We did not do lunch at the buffet. We walked around one day as we wanted to report but didn’t stay. Derek?

Derek: overall I would rate this buffet as better than the Tryp, not quite as good as the SCCG

We did have dinner at the buffet and Christmas Eve was special. There was a large ham being carved to order. Lamb was available and lots of shrimp. The shrimp was not cleaned and so the usual feeding frenzy did not happen. I guess those little eyes put people off. They were quite large and very tasty. Champagne was offered to everyone at the door and you could also have it at your table. Very nice.

At night the crepe station becomes the pasta bar. It is very good with the choice of pasta, sauce as well as various ingredients to choose from.

The grills would do meat and fish to your request.

The juice station became the desert bar and that of course includes the choice of ice cream with sauces to add. Yummmmmm

Wine is available and it is the same as the a la carte restaurant. It did not appear there was a choice regarding the wine, but it was certainly pleasant.

Derek: the red was OK. I still would like a little better quality, not an expensive improvement I think, and a little variety.]

Creole Restaurant is located to the east of the pool and near one of the walkways to the beach and appeared to be a thoroughfare for guests to make their way from the rooms at the east end of the resort to the center of the resort.

It is a large space and has 3 levels and gives the sense of open air although it is covered and there are walls. It does have open wall areas and on a windy night you notice it. There is a bar where you can have a drink before taking your table or wait for friends. It has a BBQ grill , a salad bar and a desert bar. It is a self serve set up with servers for wine. It was not busy any evening we wandered by nor the evening we dined there. We also noted that since it was not busy there were some guests who arrived without a reservation and were allowed to sit. Very sensible of the staff.

Derek: I didn’t find the regular offerings at the Creole restaurant all that enticing. I think most Cuban food, unless done very plainly (like BBQ chicken etc.), needs a hefty dose of a good hot sauce. Cuban cuisine must be the only national cuisine of the Caribbean that doesn’t have a hot and spicy side to it. The plain pork was great, as was the lamb, but the sauces were on the bland side and not worth the effect they have in disguising the taste of the meat without adding anything to it.]
[Whew! I’ve been watching the Food Channel © can you tell?]

There was lamb, pork, rice and beans and plain rice available.

On the Friday evening there is a special lobster dinner. It is a 5 course meal and the cost is $20.00 per person. We were fortunate enough to be invited to attend the dinner by the Miriam Maite Alonso, Public Relations Manager and General Manager Krister Esteban, whom I was also delighted to meet at the anniversary party on the Sunday. It was a wonderful meal. It apparently is usually held the evening prior to departure and so it was held the Saturday the week before as the Quebec guests were leaving on the Sunday. It was changed to accommodate our flight and we were very happy it was.

There was punch, champagne, wine, red and white as well as coffee and liquors available. !st course was salad, 2nd lobster bisque soup, 3rd shrimp, 4th lobster, large, delicious and served with wonderful melted butter and thick with garlic, 5th desert and coffee. Derek? The lobster was so large I was unable to finish it. Derek checked with the chef and discovered they precook the lobster and then put it on the grill with a special sauce. There were 4 chefs on hand and they were all eager to cook for everyone. One of the P.R. staff came to check that we were enjoying our meal. The invitation was a wonderful gesture from the management of the resort and both Derek and I truly appreciated it.

[Derek: all very good. The lobsters were not small either.]

Is your mouth watering yet?

La Picua, beach grill is the restaurant that is closest to the beach. It is very much like the Hemmingway’s grill was at the Tryp before it became new and improved and much more “formal” It is a thatched building with a bar and a salad bar on the main floor so to speak. There is also a pasta bar with a variety of cooked pasta, kids seemed to enjoy. There is a BBQ grill built separately from the main building where 2 chefs bbq chicken and fish. There is also table service for drinks and fries as well as burgers and hot dogs. The treat with this restaurant is the tables in the sand. If you like the feel of the sand on your feet and would prefer not to put on your shoes to do lunch there are tables and chairs in the sand that have umbrellas over the tables to protect you from that midday sun. We enjoyed this spot very much. It is pretty well in the middle of the resort so easy to make your way to from where ever you are on the beach.

[Derek: what I appreciated most was the fact that they really BBQ’d everything. Unlike the large beach grill at the Tryp where everything is fried especially in the heat. Yech!

Los Flamencos, called the Cuban Club is located at the west end of the resort placed on the most western path to the beach. It si open form 10:00 am to 5:00 pm unless the manager decides to have “Happy Hour” from 5:00 to 7:00 pm. This appears to happen fairly often. The night we arrived there was a going away party for the Quebec group going on and it really sounded like a lot of fun. This is the bar if you are looking for cray people to have a party with.

There is a grill and they do burgers and hot dogs with fries. It is covered but open on 3 sides. High tables and stools. This is one of the areas with a hot tub and around the tub, out in the sun, there are lounge chairs. A well used bar and grill and a lot of fun.

When the manager decides to have happy hour it is time to party. Drinks are on the house and he ensures everyone has plenty. He also puts on quite a show as the pictures will show. He does a variety of acts and stunts that entertain sn well as creates a dance floor and does a dance routine. Be sure to check it out. He will announce during the day when there is going to be a happy hour or you can ask for a date.

Now some observations:

There must be something in the Cuban water, which is piped to the island and is totally drinkable, that makes for such patient warm and friendly people. We are always so happy to make new friends and the staff are so ready with their friendship.

Jose (air canada rep) introduced Odaisy (public Relations)at the orientation and so I introduced myself at the end of the meeting and explained that I was part of a group of people who travelled to the Cayos and participated in a forum on the internet reporting on the forum and that Derek and I were the 1st members of the group to come to Sol Santa Maria. I explained the filosophy to her and she immediatly appreciated the attitude. She did comment that they had prepared a great welcome for the 1st Air cananda flight from Toronto, with music, dancing, drinks and was quite surprised when everyone moved off to their rooms so quickly. I explained to her that the delay at home and the airport experience was too much for people and they just needed time to adjust and rest.

later in the day when I attended the celebration for the 1st anniverary of the resorrrt opening Jose approached me and confirmed I was a happy face. He said they were waiting for the happy face arrival and although we had spoken on the bus on the way to the hotel I did not mention the Happy Face Club. He was very happy to discover we had actually arrived and wanted to know if we knew D&B. He introduced me to many of the staff including the General Manager, the VP and others. They were all pleased to meet guests who were familiar with the Cayos and who were frequent travellers to Cuba. the entertainment was excellant for the celebration.

The General Manager spoke and thanked the many staff who were in attendance for the many sacrifices they had made over the year to make the resort's 1st year a success. I mentioned the award ceremony where many of the staff received special awards for outstanding service. Jose (air Canada vacations rep) received an award for his past service in the sales dept. He also transalated the gen Manager's speech into english. Time out for sleep. More tomorrow.

Now some observations:

There must be something in the Cuban water, which is piped to the island and is totally drinkable, that makes for such patient warm and friendly people. We are always so happy to make new friends and the staff are so ready with their friendship.

Jose (air canada rep) introduced Odaisy (public Relations)at the orientation and so I introduced myself at the end of the meeting and explained that I was part of a group of people who travelled to the Cayos and participated in a forum on the internet reporting on the forum and that Derek and I were the 1st members of the group to come to Sol Santa Maria. I explained the filosophy to her and she immediatly appreciated the attitude. She did comment that they had prepared a great welcome for the 1st Air Cananda flight from Toronto, with music, dancing, drinks and was quite surprised when everyone moved off to their rooms so quickly. I explained to her that the delay at home and the airport experience was too much for people and they just needed time to adjust and rest.

later in the day when I attended the celebration for the 1st anniverary of the resorrrt opening Jose approached me and confirmed I was a happy face. He said they were waiting for the happy face arrival and although we had spoken on the bus on the way to the hotel I did not mention the Happy Face Club. He was very happy to discover we had actually arrived and wanted to know if we knew D&B. He introduced me to many of the staff including the General Manager, the VP and others. They were all pleased to meet guests who were familiar with the Cayos and who were frequent travellers to Cuba. the entertainment was excellant for the celebration.

The General Manager spoke and thanked the many staff who were in attendance for the many sacrifices they had made over the year to make the resort's 1st year a success. I mentioned the award ceremony where many of the staff received special awards for outstanding service. Jose (air Canada vacations rep) received an award for his past service in the sales dept. He also transalated the gen Manager's speech into english. Time out for sleep. More tomorrow.

Monday, December 31, 2012

Melia Cayo Santa Maria Dec 2012



This review will be a bit different as this time I (Derek) will write the bulk of it while Geri will add her thoughts here and there in italics.

We won’t be covering everything in a lot of detail.  We’ll just note the things that are new (to us at least;). It has been a few years since we have stayed at the Melia, (though we have spent a day or two there whilst registered elsewhere) and those things that have changed, those things that have not changed but which we think should or shouldn’t - if that makes any sense.

The trip was a portent of things to come: it was by far the best travel day(s) we have had in a long time, perhaps ever.  We booked though our local CAA agency and as a result had a night at the Sheraton on Dixon Road near Toronto Pearson (not the one built into Terminal 3) and free parking for the whole trip included.  We avoided rush hour on the way into Toronto, had no trouble getting to sleep early, caught the shuttle in leisurely fashion, enjoyed our (paid-for) priority check-in and had a fine flight down.

Airport in Cuba as always, save for the near-complete expansion of the parking lot bar. 

Geri: They had a temporary bar set up and luckily it was set up in front of our bus.  No chance of missing that bus.  

This time (unlike our last trip to CubaJ) we managed to catch the right bus and were established by 14:00, glasses of champers (OK, sparkling wine, leave me with my holiday illusions). 

Geri- ‘established’ means slightly unpacked, long pants shed, and back to the lobby bar.

Speaking of champagne, there’s an alcove off the lobby bar that has champagne and fresh orange juice available all morning.  There’s the same in the buffet restaurant, but it only goes into the ice about the time the restaurant opens and so it can be warmish, depending on your eating time. 

Geri:  Our reservations for the 1st week were in the registration package we received by the airport. It also included room number and bracelet. It is my preferred way. No lineups. 

The room was as always.  Showed a bit of wear here and there but nothing serious.  From our first stay back the year the resort opened we’ve always thought it odd that a high-end resort like the Melia doesn’t provide facecloths and facial tissues in the rooms.

We were in 1722.  Building 17, as far as we can recall, has been the only building we’ve ever stayed in.  We like it and will request it again.  Close to the beach (right across the walkway from the Ranchon restaurant) and pools and most importantly, the poolside grill. 

Geri: The towel and book exchange is also right there.

The important stuff first: all the bars we tried, and I think we tried them all save for the one in the waiting room outside the French and Japanese reataurants, make pina coladas from scratch, not from mix.  Yum.  Not so the margarita mix unfortunately.  Margaritas have also been a problem for us in Cuba going back to the early 90’s when we were served them in glasses rimmed with sugar.  :-)

We expected the restaurants to be pretty empty given that the hotel was less than half full while we were there.  But even so, few people seem to have figured out that the pool grill served great a la carte breakfasts.  We had it to ourselves most mornings.  We did eat at the breakfast buffet a couple of times (once to test and once while on a bacon safari) and it was fine.  Much improved really.  They have removed or cut down much of the wall between the serving and eating areas and that has done a great deal to improve traffic flow.  Of course the resort was nowhere near full, but still we think it is much better.

The Ranchon serves as the beach grill at lunch, no change there.  The food was quite good by any standard I think.  A charcoal BBQ cooked meats and veg while the fish was done in the kitchen.  I’m no fan of their little buffet hot table.

Geri: there is also a buffet with a salad bar and various hot dishes, including poutine. They always had 2 or 3 choices of potatoes incl sweet potatoes. 

I have to say that each time we visit the Mediterranean restaurant the menu has gone downhill.  When it first opened I thought it was one of the best if not the best a la carte at any of the Cuban resorts we’ve visited.   Now it’s a spot I would avoid.

It is also showing some wear and could use some ceiling repairs.

At the other end of the spectrum was the Japanese restaurant.  It was quite good with a pretty good show put on by the chefs at each of the tables.  The sushi was even real sushi, not some concoction made of canned tuna.  The soy sauce way salty: of the VH variety rather than the brewed kind (Kikkoman et al).

In between are the Italian and the French.  The Italian isn’t as good as it was in the days when you got a really nice beef carpaccio with olive oil (which then evolved into carpaccio with mayo masquerading as aioli and thence off the menu entirely) and you had a choice of pasta and a choice of perhaps 5 different sauces, but it was otherwise acceptable.

Better than the Italian, the French had an acceptable chateaubriand and a choice of wines.  The veg overcooked.

A nice feature is the waiting room/bar that serves the Japanese and French restaurants.  Up to about 20 people can wait in a lounge area for their service time to come up. 
 There’s a bar and bartender who will announce when each restaurant is ready to receive guests.   Wine, beer, liquor.  

Because (we think) the hotel had so few quests the buffet was open every second night, the a la carte spots the other days.  And the Mediterranean restaurant had a fixed menu the even we ate there, no options.  Dinner at the buffet was pretty standard.  I found it easy to make up a light mean of cold cuts, olives, cheese etc.

Regardless which restaurant we ate in, we were always grateful for having remembered to bring our humidity-proof travel salt and pepper shaker (from Lee Valley).  As is now my habit I brought along a bottle of hot sauce.  Though, on a visit to the Sol we noticed a bottle at each table at the beach grill.

What we didn’t remember to bring were our coffee mugs.  And we only had one water bottle for beach bar use.  The latter a special pain as the plastic glasses used at the pool bar and the beach are not only wasteful but tiny.  And seemingly getting smaller every year.  We have some Cristal plastic beer glasses at home from years ago that we use for the odd BBQ at our place.  They’ll hold a full 330ml bottle of beer.  Five years from now thimbles?  :-)

For morning cappuccinos I would use the ceramic mugs that sat next to the room’s coffee machine.  Refills not problem given how close we were to the snack bar.

Bars all good, as always.  Beach and pool bars offer chair service.  Order 4-5 of whatever you drink would be our advice unless you remember to bring your own insulated mugs or cups.  There’s only the one server at each and so it can be a while between tours and these plastic cups are near thimble-sized.  :-)

The bank service was unchanged.  200CAD got us 196CUC.

A new (to us) development was the number of guests from Latin America.  Canadians were a majority, but there were also folks from Germany and Spain and Russia.  Staff and regulars report that the summer is busy with an increasing number of Cubans using the resorts.

The beach was as always for the most part, though on the day we walked down to Memories Azul we noticed (couldn’t help it really) that was no real beach at the Barcelo.  Instead there was a 3-4m limestone cliff dropped straight down to the sand.  There was literally no way to get the beach there unless you brought your own ladder.  Clearly Sandy was responsible.  See some photos I took for details.

There were afternoon and evening entertainments of course.  Around 4 there were fashion shows, trick bike demonstrations, music etc by the pool.  Music and one night a magician in the lobby bar leading into the evening stage show.  The show was a cut-down edition as the resort was so empty.  ‘Black and White’ were part of it.  Bit disappointing as their usual humour-and-music approach was directed out (though it was back when we saw them at the Ranchon at lunch one day).

The animation staff was blessedly quiet for most of our stay.  Though if I could find the person (I use the term loosely) who set up both the beach and poolside playlists to blare out ‘The Big Bamboo’ every twenty minutes or so I would happily strangle them.
Week 2 of our stay we refer to as The Week the Yobs Arrived.  They calmed down after a day or two, but a bunch of boys from Toronto spent their first week out from under their mothers doing things like having contests to see if they could jump in the pool after downing one drink while not spilling another in the other hand.

The one real downer was four days with little or no hot water.  It was fixed before we left after a team of plumbers went close to 48 hours straight.  No great crisis however: even ‘cold’ the water was warm enough to shower in, if a bit bracing.

Otherwise the worst I can say about the place is that the new bits of the resort  (the French and Japanese restaurants for example) or a visit to the Las Dunas next door make parts of the Melia, especially the lobby bar, look a little in need of some freshening.

Misc:

My standard leave-me-alone-I-don’t-want-to-talk bar ploy by leading the person approaching me to think I am a cricket fan, fell down badly when it was a Windy supporter who sat down next to me.  Works well in Canadian hotel bars though.  “Sorry, am not a hockey fan, but did you see the latest India-England test?” usually gets me back to my book pretty quick.  :-)

Ernesto from the animacion staff held tai chi classes on the beach every morning.  20+ participants not unusual.  I like this not because I participated, but because a tai chi class is a lot quieter and easier to deal with when you’re trying to read than are dance classes, aquafit etc.

The nude beach at the far west end of the Sol’s section of the beach was fine.  And for a change the bar service extends to that area.

Sol Visit:

Lots of old friends to see.  We’ve heard people talk about how, though it is technically not as highly-rated (3.5 stars I think, compared to the Melia’s 4 or even 4.5 rating), the Sol remains busy full year-round and has way more regulars than the other hotels on CSM.  The ‘atmosphere’ is what does it.  The lack of staff turnover is both an indicator of this as well as a reason for it.  The dialectical nature of the hospitality biz?  J:-)  Anyway, the Sol was clearly busier than the Melia.

One important note to regulars: Elsie at the pizza restaurant is retiring in May.
Each time we pop into the Sol, whether to stay or just to visit, we are struck by the more ‘wild’ approach to landscaping there.  And by the quality and variety of the food at the buffet restaurant – which now offers pogos!!!

A sign of age: I can remember when the beach grill at the Sol was a bunch of stumps and palapas.  Now the last of the stumps are gone, replaced with decking and picnic tables.

News of Other Resorts:

We ran into two couples who had stayed at the Buenavista.  One couple loved it, especially for the snorkelling nearby.  The other complained about weedy beaches and the food not being as good as the other resorts.  Both mentioned being outside having a shower when the bug sprayer went past.

The Memories resorts continue to get decent reviews, especially with regard to food.
Las Dunas was as always.  We were again impressed by the lobby bar and the buffet’s food.  But a word of warning: it was almost as empty of guests as the Melia.  When packed, as it was when we last stayed there, things move slower and can be more complicated.  We’re talking about perhaps going again, despite its size, and trying for a slow period.

The Return:

Mostly went well, but there was much-heightened security entering the departures area.  Geri had to dump her water and lost a lighter. I lost a jeweller’s screwdriver.  No biggy but it was as tight as at home, which is to say a little tighter than normal for Cuba.  I mention it only because repeat travellers might want to be a little more careful about what they pack where.

The best part of the last day?  After 14 days of perfect weather, about an hour before we got onto the bus for the airport it started to rain.  Makes leaving a little more bearable.  :-)

Happy to answer questions.  Look for some further comments from Geri below.