Wednesday, March 13, 2013

Sol Cayo Santa Maria (Cuba) 2013



Well, as always, a bit later than I had hoped, but here’s our review (mine really, Geri’s comments will follow).  This’ll be short, just a bunch of notes about changes, my comments on things.  Seems a waste of readers’ time for me to re-state things I’ve said (or which others have said better) in prior reports.
Another great travel day outbound.  Getting a hotel room with parking is definitely the way to go for early-morning departures.  For us (100+km east of Toronto) it’s cheaper than a limo or cab, far more convenient than the airport bus, and both cheaper and easier than long-term parking.  If we had a departure later in the day we’d train and then bus it, but for anything requiring us to be at Pearson before 09:00 this is the way to go.  My only cautionary note would be that hotels seem to have and then not have room-with-parking deals, so each trip seems to require that we stay at a different hotel.  Interesting in some ways, but I do wish the Sheraton on Dixon was always offering a special as it was the best all around.  Next to the Sheraton right at Terminal 3 of course.  Though the Holiday Inn (970 Dixon) was closest to the airport (Sheraton Gateway excepted of course) and offers the most frequent shuttle service (15-20 minutes, 24 hours a day).

Best of all waking up at the airport or close to it makes for a reasonable first day.  We arrive ready to go rather than ready to nap.

Though of course what I mean by ‘go’ is ‘go to the beach, get a beer and lie down with a book’.  No marathons or mountain climbing on arrival for us.

The only down side to the trip there was the size of the seats on the Sunwing aircraft.  We got the ‘Elite Plus’ package and so had an additional 10kgs of luggage and priority check-in.  Worth the price.  But we couldn’t help but think it would be nice to have something like Air Transat’s or Air Canada’s semi-business class options.  Bigger seats and a few perks.  Sunwing’s tiny seats a bit of a challenge for anyone XL-sized.  Or anyone having to sit next to such a person.  Dunno what to say to those seated between two large people.  Good luck?

At the Santa Clara end of the trip things went smoothly as well.  The bar expansion is complete.  There’s work being done to expand the ramp (larger or more planes expected???).

The gambio wicket is now outside, easily accessed by all, including arriving passengers.  To your right as you exit the arrivals area with your luggage.

The rooms at the Sol are as always: fine.  I love those bright bathrooms; bright thanks to those huge windows.

They do show some wear.  I think a full reno is still a few years away but it is coming.  There have been some touch-ups (metal railings on stairs and balconies have replaced the wooden for example, and painting is pretty much a continuous job for at least a couple of staff).  But it’s hard to complain about a bit of rust on a bath tub and that sort thing.  While it’s there, the fact is that this was a 4-star hotel when it opened, but always priced and marketed as a 3.5, so it can stand a bit of wear before it’s time to complain too loudly.

One thing was annoying, though it’s over and done with now: there were repairs to the water system happening while we were there.  It meant no hot water in the rooms from about 10 until exactly 5pm each day.  And no water at all overnight.  Not hard to live with, but a notice or warning to that effect would not have gone too far wrong.

This happened on about 5 days I think.  Extra bottled water was provided though.

Speaking of bottles, we had one of rum waiting in our room on arrival.  Nice to know they remember us, keep track.

There was one couple we got to know who had more serious issues with their room.  The a/c never worked properly, which presented problems for them as both had health issues.  A bad week for them as there were no empty rooms to move them to until they were almost ready to return home and even swapping out the a/c unit didn’t fix the problem.

Geri also had a serious problem with the wear-and-tear issue.  Getting out of the pool one day she had one foot go through the plastic grating that surrounds the pools.  Some bruising and scraping.  I took a piece of grate to the Public Relations office and demonstrated how easily broken it was.  They were quite apologetic, we received late checkout (Geri’s idea, they offered fee massages for us both) and the following day the grating was being replaced.

Now (it has been a while since we stayed here) beach and pool bar service when staffing levels allow.  Very nice touch and something  that we used to see only at 5-star joints.

Service was always great, despite the large number of students.  For the first few days they were around the regular staff worked alongside them, so many positions were double-staffed; afterwards no problems other than the odd mixology issue (margarita with an olive turned out to be not bad actually, may try it again).

If you’re thinking of going to the Sol, don’t forget that it is a family resort: a fair number of kids about, especially noticeable at the pool.

No coffee or tea in-room, but the lobby bar a short walk from anywhere on the resort for quite good coffee.  On two days the water had been off overnight and so there was a delay in getting (an admittedly very early) morning coffee until it came back on around 06:30.

No bacon for a couple of days.  Ditto French fries.  Probably just as well as I put on weight despite the shortage.  Two mornings the better smelled a bit off.

Generally we still think that the Sol’s buffet is about the best on CSM.

There was a staff rotation amongst all the bars and restraurants the second week we were there.  Vistually everyone has changed work locations.

We took the Jeep Safari’ tour for the first time.  Was OK, enjoyable.  Bits of it will be more or less a matter of taste.  We enjoyed the nature walk the most.  Geri the lunch stop as lunch was a suckling (or close to) pig and the carver, a very nice woman, was happy to slip Geri all the crackling.

The only bit I think all would not enjoy was the wait the majority of the tour had to sit through while a small number of the group did some horseback riding.  Especially annoying as there were, it turned out, some interesting historical sites nearby we could have visited rather than sitting around beerless for an hour.

We skipped the simulated cockfight.  I’ll spare you my rant on this and such things as swimming with dolphins.  A matter for each conscience I suppose.

In a similar vein, along the road kids and parents stopped to wave at us as our convoy of jeeps went by and some of the tourists were slowing to hand out candy to the kids.  I have to say we find this appalling.  These people are effectively running a begging school for children.

On a lighter note, the fellow driving the jeep in front of ours was in dire need of driving lessons and/or thought the rules of the road didn’t apply to him as a tourist (he managed to stop at exactly one stop sign out of perhaps 20-30).  We nicknamed him F***wit and had a fine time keeping track of his violations.

NOTE: all the vehicles provided had manual transmissions.

Weather was perfect save for one rainy day and one slightly cool (22???) day.  On the rainy day we were able to make use of the umbrella in our room.  On those two days the piano bar was opened as a substitute for the lobby bar.  Quite pleasant.

The lobby bar hops around 0700 as it is the first stop (coffee) for tour guides etc. when they arrive.  Good time to practice your Spanish while waiting for a cappuccino.

Food at the Fontanella good by all accounts.  Buffet mentioned elsewhere.  Cuban closed after a fire.  Almost ready I would say.  Substitute was the pizza restraint operating for dinner.
Pizza and beach grills quite good.

My friends the fish in the pool around the lobby doing well (though might be several generations/fish fries removed from those there in 2003) but the pool around the Fontanella was still empty of water (and fish).

Beach great, as always.  Secluded bits pristine between the nude beach and the Melia Buenavista at the west end of the beach.

The bungalow at the west end of the resort still there and still looking great.  A friend who’s a tour rep tells us it is sued regularly by people wanting to spend a few days in luxury near the end of a week or two at the resorts nearby.  CUC300 per day for double occupancy.  One day...

The return trip was fine, thanks in large part to us opting (as we always do) for the VIP option at the airport.  Even with three outgoing flights we were able to find seats and get great service from the bar staff.  We both had a couple of G&Ts to help us sleep on the flight.  I also had a ham and cheese sandwich, toasted, Geri some bagged snacks.  And of course best of all we had priority check-in: faster even than the Elite Plus line.

Perhaps the most important but difficult-to-word bit to my report is in regard to the ‘feel’ of the place.  Admittedly we’ve been going there for a while (we were on the first flight from Toronto, I think in January 2003), but even allowing for that I think it’s fair to say that the place has a near-unique ‘homey’ feeling to it.  I think it’s largely due to there being a lot of stability amongst the staff.  Over the years a number of taken advantage of promotions and the other advantages of having new resorts open nearby and moved, but a great many have stayed.

That combined with a loyal clientele who keep returning every year gives it a ‘feel’ you don’t find many other places.

Sunday, March 10, 2013

Washington 2009

We're in Washington (with a house sitter back at home, house-breakers take note) as I have a conference here starting Sunday night, we like to use points of various kinds to turn these opportunities into little vacations.

I've started uploading our photos to Flickr here is anyone is interested:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/dblackadder/c...57621908718093/
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Thanks alll around. Made Ben's as part of the walk of the U Street neighbourhood, but too hot and humid to get in what we would normally consider a full day.

Tomorrow our last completely free day (well, mine anyway). The Holocaust Museum and the Air and Space.

Monuments a little weird here: all to politicians, relatively few to events and such. A relatively small war memorial here and another there, a huge thing to Taft (who the heck was he?). And a huge difference between the biz/govt. districts and the residential areas. Most of the latter just recovering from the riots of the late 60's. Quite bizarre: a huge outdoor museum/office space on the one hand (with workers who commute from outside DC), and rather dismal but lively/fun areas (if that makes any sense) on the other.

Cold beer though, and really, on a day like today, when it's gotta be 35 and 110%, what else matters?
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  As always I am uncertain whether anyone gets anything out of these, but as it doesn't take much time to post the text of the e-postcards we send family and friends, here's our/my stream-of-consciousness report of our trip to Washington. And, also as always, I seem to have lost one, the first:

Couldn’t resist the adolescent in me: small act against the blockade of Cuba:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/dblackadder/3...57622033116940/

Had forgotten how overtly religious Americans are. Sometimes quite jarringly so. Safeway carries a nice selection of really loonie-tune books about everything from the evils of abortion and same-sex marriage through to the ‘end of days’ which apparently is due on the next bus. Some of it clearly qualifies as hate literature. Quite bizarre to see it all in a grocery store.

Trend continues: whites think Cdn. medical system is a crime against humanity and apparently know all they need to, African and Latina-Americans want to ask questions about it. Race/class convergence or is that too facile?.

Weather not hot-hot but warm mebbe 30 and incredibly humid. Food good so far but no raves. Room has a kitchenette, we’re dining-in this evening.

Hotel nice but rooms tiny. 20 minute walk from White House. Across the street from the offices of Equality, the US gay rights org. People with a hard row to hoe. The Beacon Hotel if anyone cares.

Catty comment: A lot of really obese people here. It kinda jumps out at you from the airport on. Then you eat in a restaurant and figure out why. I thought our portions were big, these are HUGE.

Bus tour to get oriented today. Hop-on, off type. Lots of monuments and stuff. Lots of police and many different services, plus security guards here carry guns, I think this is a bad thing, and I speak as a former security guard. Lots of dogs and gates and entertaining security barriers that pop up out of the pavement very quickly and with a bang.

Lots of cheesie stuff too, which I enjoyed. Photos will be uploaded and captioned tomorrow I hope.


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Did a walking tour of one of the predominantly African-American parts of the city today. Quite fun and informative. Area just now recovering from the riots that broke out after the assassination of Martin Luther King 40 years ago.

Riots not the only problem to overcome. Lots of historical racism talked about of course. Last big one was Regan getting elected and effectively cancelling a subway that was being built down the main street in the area. The cancellation left a huge trench where the street had been. For two years the whole shopping/business district was closed down.

Regan-made disaster. One of many.

Two others on the tour, both live in DC. Interesting to talk to them about the way the city works when it really isn’t a city, when the Congress can veto any bylaws passed by the city. Laws about carrying concealed weapons, access to abortion facilities, whole bunch of stuff vetoed by a Congress that is generally much more conservative than the city council.

But at least they have a city council. It’s apparently a recent innovation. Prior to, the city was run by a commission appointed by Congress.

Congress can also impose things on the city, and it is regularly used as place where various experiments are tried. Latest is charter schools, which is gutting the education system.

Monument to African-Americans in the US Civil War interesting too. An only recently-recovered bit of history. 200,000+ fought on the north side, not much acknowledged until recently.

Woman at the heritage centre nearby was quite moved as this year was the first time ever that a US president had sent a wreath to the monument on the day when all civil war dead remembered. Forever there has been one sent to the monument of those who fought to retain slavery, but never one to the black soldiers, many ex-slaves, who fought against it.

A very big deal for her, you could tell. Helps me with some of my cynicism about Obama, his policies.

That got me thinking about the other memorials we’ve seen. A majority are of/for individuals, usually politicians. Compared to other capitals there are relatively few about events or groups or collective achievements.

Fun one though: some goof named Taft who was responsible for a piece of anti-union legislation is right across the street from the Teamsters offices.

But that memorial demos my point: who the hell was Taft and why does he has a monument/memorial almost as big as the war memorial in Ottawa? And his is just one of a bunch. Very odd. Multiple cults of personalty(ies).

The other social institution here I have observed :hystericalwdukv7to: is liquor stores. Beer’s noticeably (about 1.5 times plus exchange) more expensive than at home, the selection is different of course, they’re kinda grungy even in the better areas, but also kinda like social centres. Fun to hang in for a bit I think. Course, it might just be that people here are generally very outgoing and friendly, no matter where you meet them.

Wine about the same price. But prices vary as the shops are private. Some shops have a good selection but seem more expensive than home, others a narrow selection towards the bottom end of the price range but might be cheaper. All are big consumers of security equipment.

My experience limited to NYC, Conn., Boston and now Washington, but I am wondering if our assumption of cheaper booze in the US is a myth.

Hotel getting good reviews. Very reasonably-priced for the area and the area is very convenient. Access to the Y next door is free, the restaurant is good though we have only eaten there once, the rooftop bar is nice, if small and filled with 20’s types from area offices.

One of the latter, a woman, was a hoot to listen to last night up there. A long slightly drunken lecture on what men should look for in women’s breasts. Made it a little easier to bear the $27USD charge for two G&Ts.

Tomorrow I have a meeting at 1800, then the festivities begin. Prior to that we’re hitting the Holocaust Memorial Museum and the air and Space Museum and the Women in the Arts Museum.

All that after a workout at the Y. And in this heat…

In case you thought the stuff about loons with guns and such in yesterday’s e-postcard was a bit over the top:

http://tpmdc.talkingpointsmemo.com/2009/08...of-firearms.php


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Might be the last one as the conference formally starts this morning.

Yesterday morning we spent 3 hours at the US Holocaust Museum. Very…something…Not technically impressive as a museum, but the subject matter…

Security very tight after the recent killing of a guard by a right-wing loon who was attacking the place. Guards (very tense and watchful) and metal detectors and such. In a sad way the security added to the impact of the museum.

Afternoon was to have been the Air and Space Museum, but apparently what I was expecting (a few huge buildings full of aircraft I could take photos of as with the Aviation Museum in Ottawa) is out in the sticks somewhere. What I got instead was several hordes (I counted to 8.7 hordes and then gave up) of kids, lots of interactive stuff and no room to move let alone take proper photos.

I gave up after 30 minutes and we waded through the line ups at the built-in McDonald’s and headed home. Too hot to make for the Women in the Arts Museum, so we beered for an hour and then napped. Geri might get there while I am conferencing as there are only bits she is attending. I was up in time, just barely, to beer and snack for three hours with the early arrivals for the LabourStart conference.

Photos of the touristy bit are mostly captioned or not in need of captions and can be found here:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/dblackadder/c...57621908718093/

Photos of the Conference will appear at the following link, starting with a few from last night.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/dblackadder/c...57621938337525/

Northern California 2011

On 1 September Geri and I are off to Vancouver (housebreakers note, we have a house and cat sitter). We're renting a convertible at the airport and driving down to Seatle for a couple of days, then to San Francisco for 4-5 days plus day trips to places like Monterey. Then 5 days in the Napa Valey sampling the wine and food before heading back to Vancouver for a few days.

This is a mostly points vacation and so quite cheap, so we're looking for not just the usual (but always helpful) suggestions about what to see and do, but some referrals to fancy retaurants (there are a couple of Michelin-starred places in both S-F and Sonoma).

Look for regular reports as we go along to as I've recently made the move to a Mac air and Geri will be the have her iPad up and runningWe'll use the trip as a bit of a shakedown for them both
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 We're in Oregon at the moment, heading to Vancouver for a day or two with my sister and my conference and then home. Would have uploaded photos to Flickr I could point you to but left the cable at home. Some photos taken on my phone and a steady stream of post cardish observations are on my personal account on Facebook: Derek Family-Blackadder.
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I 'm still captioning, but even without it helps (I hope) that I have broken them up into small batches.

http://www.flickr.co...57627606311231/
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Manhatten 2011

I'm here for a conference, Geri came along for some shoe-shopping and we're both managing some fine eating and sight-seeing.

The conference is at NYU, so our hotel is right on Washington Square (and so is called the Washington Square Hotel). Great food, fine hotel and by Greenich Village standards fairly cheap at $265 a night. second time we have stayed here.

Great area, lots of fine small restaurants. The Square itself is fun to wander on a sunny day. Manhatten kinda European in that residents have very little poersonal indoor space and no outdoor space to speak of, and so make good use of public spaces.

Photos of our visit here:

http://www.flickr.co...57627429718662/

Tuesday, January 1, 2013

Jibacoa 2003

Hi folks. We’re a week back from the Jibacoa and just now getting around to posting our impressions. What I’ve done is read through the existing postings and resort reports, and just add our impressions, opinions and conclusions.

FLIGHT and TRANSFER:

We flew Air Transat’s first class. The flight was great and the larger seats and other extras make it worth the price in our view. I believe that for two of us we paid an additional $300 round trip. It helps to arrive in good shape and ready to go. Of course for Geri, the additional luggage weight allowance was important as well. Double, it was.

For us, not having been there in 12 years or more, the changes to Varadero airport were impressive.

The bus ride to the resort went smoothly, all the more so because there were only 8 people (six of them in our party) for the trip. Nevertheless, we had a full-sized bus. Luckily too, as the washroom came in handy for those who made use of the beer tent in the airport parking lot.

THE RESORT:

Others have described it in detail. So I will just add my impressions.

The layout is pretty standard, though I think the landscaping is a cut above the usual. The rooms are fine, though I found the lack of a room mini-fridge annoying and not understandable. In every other respect the resort is 4-star, so the lack is odd. Not having a cold drink in the room or cold water for middle-of-the-night sipping, or a place to keep a late-night snack is noticed.

We stayed opposite a grassy area with a gazebo. In 2 weeks there were 2-3 weddings there. Around the gazebo is a small moat full of fish. They take kindly to being fed, so grab a few slices of bread at breakfast and stop off on your way back to your room!

The bars were dandy, the food fine. The Cuban restaurant was good, the Italian was excellent! Our only complaint here was the fact that each room could only get one reservation per week at each. We regularly stay at much cheaper resorts (the Tryp Cayo Coco being the best in this regard) with equally good a la carte restaurants, but where you can book a table as often as you’re prepared to make the effort.

Highlights of the buffet were the Thursday lobster festivals and the chef who did the breakfast omelets (Rady). Yum! on both counts.

The buffet goes through a series of ‘theme nights’. I particularly enjoyed the Mexican nights as I find Cuban and buffet food generally rather bland. Lobster night aside, I didn’t notice that the themes were fixed to any particular day of the week. Added a bit of spice (literally as well as figuratively) to the buffet offerings.

Between 16:00 and 18:00 each day there are cakes and tea available outside the Cuban restaurant on their patio, hot snacks (eg. patties and pizza) in the lobby.

The Breezes was the first resort-style hotel we’ve stayed at in Cuba that had room service. Only available for breakfast. HUGE plates of pastries and fresh fruit, plus all the fresh orange juice and coffee you can get down. Highly recommended, but I was ready to go back to bed right after! Look for the order form in your desk drawer and drop it at the front desk the day before.

There are the usual assortment of small stores in the hotel, with prices considerably better than in Havana or at the airport. In addition the 3-star resort next door has a shop with a larger selection of handicrafts and booze (less of everything else though) and you’ll have no problem wandering over, either along the beach or by road. Just tell the security folks what you’re there for.

BEACH and WATER:

The beach is a bit coarse for our taste. A mild disappointment compared with our Cayo Coco/Santa Maria/Guillermo haunts. Not exactly rocky, but lots of shells and chunks of coral, small and large etc. along the waterline. The snorkeling off the beach was good. And the farther you go the better is gets. One odd thing we noticed was the lack of Sergeant Majors on the reef…anyone have an explanation? Lots of other fish though, including a couple of different varieties of rays.

One day a large turtle washed-up on shore. Not pleasant, but interesting as I have never seen one live. Looked like it died of natural causes (or at least I like to think so).

One very disappointing thing about the water was the regular invasions of Portuguese Men O’War. At best I would say we had two days in a row that we free of them, though most days they would appear later in the day. My notes say that there were three days when we had to stay out of the water entirely and make for the pool.
Which wasn’t as bad as it sounds really. The resort is close to Havana, Matanzas and Varadero, so each day saw many guests head out by bus for the tours. So the pool was far from crowded, even when the beach was closed. And the beach was never crowded.

TOURS:

Each day there was a free nature hike up the hill immediately behind the hotel. Worth an hour or two, though a bit steep at first. You don’t have to be in great shape, but decent shoes and a fair bit of wind are needed.

We took a cab into Havana one day and did a self-directed tour. There were 6 of us, so we got a van and spent the day (9-18:00). $25US plus tip for the van and driver made it a good deal.

We did the usual, wandering around the markets and the old city. Plus we gawked through the Hotel Nacional where we were meeting a friend for drinks. Wonderful public areas in the hotel and our friend says the rooms are still pretty fresh from the renos done a few years ago. Worth a visit just for the history of the place. It’s oddly reminiscent of the CP (now Fairmont I guess) railway hotels here in Canada. Big, lush, lots of stone and wood, opulent public areas.

We had lunch at the grill out the back entrance, overlooking the Malecon. Probably the priciest lunch we’ve ever had in Cuba at $10US, but it was wonderful and there was way more food than we were expecting (or wanted…but we tried valiantly to get through it all!).

Also in Havana we stopped from drinks at the Hotel Sevilla not far from the Museo d el Revolucion. Lobby areas looked wonderful, nicely restored. Wonder what the rooms are like as it’s in a great location!

On another day we rented a car and parked in Matanzas (30 mins. away) and walked around for the better part of a morning. Much fun. The town was in the midst of a local version of the national books/literary festival. Highly recommended.

On the way we stopped at the highest (314m) bridge in Cuba whose name escapes me, took some pictures, grabbed some souvenirs and enjoyed a really lovely view.
If you drive, note that the speed limit lowers in each direction suddenly just before you get to the bridge. It seems to be a popular spot for a speed trap too.

We then went on to Varadero. We couldn’t believe how much it has grown since we were there a dozen years ago. It also looks as though the beach is starting to recede a bit. We stopped for (a great!) lunch at a ‘sports bar’ near the base of the peninsula which I would recommend if I could remember the name!

We kinda took a snorkeling tour, but the area is not protected from the open seas, so it was too rough to get out of the boat. Instead we had a highly entertaining trip up and down the coast in a large-ish deep-sea fishing boat. Much fun as the waves were up to 2m (felt like 30!), but I understand that while the diving around the resort is dandy, snorkeling is less so for this reason. The coastline is too exposed.

Tours we didn’t take were the daily SCUBA dives (which probably make this resort a must for divers as the dives are included), the various (many options) organized Havana tours, the dolphin show (Varadero so an hour just to get there), the catamaran day snorkeling tour (Varadero again), the Jeep Challenge, the cave snorkeling, and the Jungle Tour (Varadero, mini speedboats, no snorkeling) tours.

OTHER:

The upstairs bar in the lobby opens at 18:30 and is very nice. Inside seating, plus two patios, great staff and an enjoyable piano player. We made it our meeting spot each evening before dinner. A little more formal-feeling than the other bars.

We never saw a show, but we certainly heard them! If you’re anything but a very heavy sleeper I’d suggest getting a room as far as possible from the pool (where the stage is).

The bicycles are new and, oddly, in very bad shape. Apparently just before we arrived they replaced old, working bikes, with the new, broken ones. Check carefully before grabbing one and heading out.

Massage service is available in the gym. Call to book, then pay at the front desk and present the receipt.

The gym is open from 7:00. Fairly complete by hotel standards.

There’s a small lending library in the gym which no one seems to know much about. We left a few books, enjoy!

The front desk would cash non-US traveler’s cheques, but wouldn’t do cash advances. You had to get into Matanzas ($87US if you rent a car for the day!) to find the nearest bank.

There’s an internet cafĂ© with 2 systems (another being replaced or installed). Nice setting across a catwalk from the upstairs bar in the lobby building.

The ice cream freak in our party could only get a regular fix at the beach grill. Ice cream was occasionally available at the buffet.

Staff, as always, wonderful. Look for the Singing Gardener!

Conclusion:

As always we had a great time, but the real advantages of this resort over others we use regularly are the diving (included) and it’s proximity to Havana and Matanzas. If you dive or want to spend some time walking around two great old, lively and fun cities, this is a great resort as you get both. And it’s cheaper than staying right in Havana.

If it’s beach time and isolation you’re looking for, we’d suggest you head for one of the Cayos.
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ALL (with apologies):
Geri has reminded me of two omisssions from my report.


1. We took one of the Hobie catamarans out a couple of times. We tried a few more times, but it was too rough. You can't get them on your own, but must have one of the water sports staff with you. Hardly ever any snorkelling from the cats we were told: it's almost always too rough outside the reef.

That said, we had fun each time and we actually enjoyed the ride, even though there was no snorkelling.

2. We had a large rat visit us our last night there (could have been worse, could have been the first night...). Some noises woke us up a couple of times, about 3am I got up to check on them and flipped the bathroom light switch only to have a large rodent run past me and into the closet...which I slammed shut, though only after a rather graceful 2 metre leap ("gazelle-like" was the phrase Geri used I think, or was that the phrase I suggested she use when describing the night's festivities to our travelling companions the next day?) from the bathroom doorway to the foot of the bed.

Construction at the resort next door combined with tropical architecture at our end.

The front desk moved us fast, we left three staff behind searching for the brown beastie.

S+*t happens. No great crisis, but as I said, best to have these things take place nearer the end than the beginning of a vacation!

:-)

 Comments on Breezes Jibacoa by Geri - Added on Jan ' 05.

geri here, I would like to add my comments on Jibacoa.

"We loved the resort and I am sure would have enjoyed the snorkelling if it were not for the "man of war'' problem There were not just a few but hundreds. they came daily and stayed. On the days they were not there we were fearful of going out in case they came and on most days they did. That limited us to the shoreline and we needed water shoes because the bottom was really rough. I would have been happy to have spent the whole vacation snorkelling and be without a nice sandy bottom but when we couldn't get either it was a disappointment.

The beach however was just great. There was lots of sun and lots of natural shade and the best beach grill ever. They had ice cream. It doesn't get any better. Ken could indulge all day and not just at meal times.

We all really enjoyed our stay and am very happy to hear that the jelly fish are not there all of the time. The lifeguard led us to believe that they were a regular thing.

ken and Thea would love to go back as Thea was really thrilled with all of the theme nights at the buffet and Ken liked the access to the ice cream all day."

Ensenachos Resort Dec 2006

Here is a review of our trip in December.

Hideaway, Ensenachos

Some observations Derek and I made. Things we particularly liked. There have been many reviews and so we will try not to comment on stuff that has been dealt with by many others. This is the 1st resort I’ve seen that so many have gone so soon and all reported on their experience.

DECOR:

We have all read about the beauty of the lobby and the rest of the buildings but I particularly loved the floral arrangements on the tables and shelves in the lobby area. There were a team of men who came in every Thursday and changed the arrangements and I was in awe of the originality of the creations. Many people commented and swore to take the ideas home. They were exquisite. Flowers hanging upside down from the top of the vase and huge vases with one flower in them. I have pictures if you go to Derek’s photo gallery.

The landscaping throughout the resort was spectacular. I have never seen so much of the original habitant within a resort area. It was like having parts of the forest around you. It gave a very different feel to the walks around the resort. Three was much precision landscaping done by the very talented gardeners but there was an equal amount of natural trees and brush as there was designed plants. Again, we noted that for the 1st time in Cuba the staff (as in the gardeners) were equipped with state of the art tools. The gardeners actually had real hedge clippers and electric trimmers. We are very used to seeing them with a machete and a very large knife. It did seem to give the landscaping a bit more of a precision look. The landscaping was beautiful and it was a joy to walk or bike around the resort.

We liked the smooth paths, they were easy on the feet and were not terribly hot when you were bare foot

ROOMS:

The rooms have been described on several occasions so I will not add anything except to say we really enjoyed the shower. I did so especially after the Blau a few weeks earlier. The balcony was also very nice. It was quite large and private, even though our room was on the 1st floor and at the front of the building.

The bathrobes and towels supplied were so soft and cuddly and absorbent, (I will not be able to go to the Blau again) Derek and I wanted to keep them and bring them home. (we didn’t) Slippers were also available, a very nice touch if you knew in advance and didn’t bring your own.
Maid service

There was day and night maid service. Towels in the morning and in the evening. Bed turn down, and they changed your beach towels, a service we particularly enjoyed. We never had to go to the info desk and/or wait for a towel.

CONCIERGE:

I think the concept is great especially for people who have not been before and don’t know the ropes. I know the reservation system is a lot better that spending any part of your day standing in line to make a reservation. There are some problems that need to be ironed out. Different people related different experiences with their concierge. Some had their reservations made for the week on the 1st day and some did not know until 5:00 pm on the day of, where or if they were dining a la carte. Derek found it impossible with our concierge the 1st week to get a booking for the happy face group. He informed us that each building got x # of seats at each restaurant and had to mete them out to all of the guests. He had some great difficulty with this chore on a daily basis. He tried very hard to please but seemed to be a bit overwhelmed at the whole prospect. The second week we had a different concierge and she was amazing. (More later) I swear she knew about problems before they happened and she had a handle on everything. One couple we met couldn’t get something as simple as the beach towels sorted out having been sent here and there and back again. They were very laid back about it and it was a running joke each day. They did not let it interfere with any of the joy they were having in paradise. I think the resort will end up with the best of the best by the time all is up and running.

BARS:

The lobby bar was very comfortable and versatile. It served all drinks of every description and the bartenders were very well trained in all ways. The service was impeccable. The bar could be open air or closed depending on the weather and the bugs. There were several door, on 2 sides, to the patio/veranda. It was a short walk across the hall to the cigar lounge where they had the pool table and the 15 year old rum. WE played pool a few times and Derek indulged in the rum. In fact, I believe ha and another happy face managed to deplete the supply completely. I suspect they did it all by themselves.

The orientation meeting was held in a meeting room and the whole area of that resort was obviously designed for conferences and business conventions. Soon it will be Cuba where the companies will be treating the staff to out of country meetings.

Drinks included all coffee liqueurs, all brand names, Smirnoff, tanquaray, jack denials, scotch, brandy, if you wanted it, it was available.

The bars had granite tops. Having just priced them for our kitchen renos, we were impressed. They had electric ice crushing machines at the bars.
The nightclub/disco was not usually busy but there were a few nights when the crowd was there and dancing. It is well set up with benches, stools, tables and chairs and couches. It is also staffed by 2 of the 3 staff from the Sol and Melia. Hernier was the bar man and was from the Sol. Carlos Amores was from the disco at the Sol and then the piano bar./disco at the Melia.

BEACH:

There were lots of beach chairs, no matter when you made it to the beach. They were unfortunately hard plastic and very hard on the back. We were surprised that this resort did not have more comfortable chairs at the beach. It meant we were unable to spend a lot of time at the beach due to my lingering injury sustained at the Blau a few weeks earlier. There were also lots of palapus’. The beach is very wide and so there were 5 or 6 rows of chairs and no one was crowded.

The water was shallow for a short walk and then was swimable very quickly. The water was however, very cold the whole time we were there. We were quite surprised as the weather was very warm. Derek does not enter the ocean if it is not warm, warm warm. Therefore it was not much fun to go alone.

It is a great beach to walk as everyone has said. There is always something to see and the sand is so nice to walk on.

There were also lots of chairs at the pools. They were nicely spread out to give some privacy but it was also easy to group chairs if you wanted. There were additional chairs available and the attendants were happy to get them for you.


BEACH BAR:

We found it to be very busy at all times. The staff tried very hard but there was a very small area to serve both food and drinks for
everyone on the beach. There will have to be more bars or a major expansion on this bar to adequately serve everyone. We tried a few times to get table service but they were just too busy. We were never in that big a hurry but did feel sorry for the hard working staff that were running from here to there and trying to get everyone fed and watered. We found it much easier to walk up to the pool snack bar to get lunch. There was also a limited selection. The 2 guys who were in charge of cooking the food had quite an assembly line going with buns on one BBQ and meat on the other but it did take quite a while. They were cooking for a lot of people. When the resort is full and people have paid a lot of money and expect fast and efficient service, the resort will have to do something to rectify the situation.


POOL SNACK BARS:

We were very happy with the pool restaurants. They were called snack bars but were misnamed. We spent most of our time at the Royal Hideaway Spa section pool. The menu included calamari, cold tomato soup (delicious) chicken breast sandwiches, Caesar salad, regular or with grilled chicken, and many more delightful items we enjoyed. The service was impeccable, friendly and fast. You could have a quick lunch or, as we did on some days, a long leisurely well into the afternoon lunch. There was full bar service and the beer was served in chilled glasses.

There were linen table cloths and napkins. I got a lesson each day in how to fold the napkins. And there was a test.

We liked the pool service for drinks. You could go to the bar, in the water or not and the staff came to your chair to serve you and were very prompt and frequent.

Our favorite wait staff was Ingrid at the pool snack bar. She was fun and went out of her way to please and to tease. She was efficient and pleasant. We enjoyed her nearly every day.

SPA:

One of the duties of the concierge was to book appointments at the Spa. I found (at least with William) it was not possible. He would take the request and tell you he could not confirm till the end of the day. If he was unable to book the time and person you wanted, you had to wait until the next day or agree in advance you would accept any time of the day and with any of the staff available. They have computer at their desks but from what I could gather they were not hooked into the system. Perhaps it is a future plan. I found it much easier to go to the Spa (next door) and book my own appointments.

I was very impressed with the facilities and the caliber of the staff. Everything was up to the minute high tech ultra sophisticated. All of the staff were very proud of the facilities and were happy to show me around. They offered all types of massage and any other kind of spa function.

One day Susset was taking a group of Cuban people on a tour and one of the men came up to me and said Hola, do you remember me? It was Jose, the receptionist from the Melia Spa. We had great hugs and he informed me that they were there for a tour and they would be getting some training at this spa. What a small world.

All charges from the spa are added to your room bill and so you do not need to carry any money with you. You just sign for the treatment. I had a massage every 2nd day and it did help my back. They were much more expensive than any other resort. $40.00 for a ½ hour regular massage and it was the cheapest one. I also had a pedicure. It was not so expensive but also not as thorough as one here in Canada.

There was also a lap pool at the spa in front of the gym. It was very quiet all day and we spoke with a couple who spent their days there because they liked the quiet. It was also the area where yoga and tai chie were held.

HOT TUB:

We found the hot tub and the cool pool beside a nice place to spend the day. We would ask for the hot tub to be turned up until it was actually hot, (the Cubans have a problem with this concept) and then we could hop in the cooler pool for awhile. I had my floating lounger with me and I could lay in this pool and read without disturbing anyone or floating in anyone’s way. There were comfortable loungers set up there as well and it was very near the bar and the snack bar. Given the great set up and the service, I couldn’t tear Derek away from the pool. I have to admit I was very happy to stay there most days. It was better for my poor tailbone and the water in the pool was much warmer than the ocean.

FRIENDS:

We ran into many friends form the Sol and Melia. Some we recognized, and some who recognized us. It was such a treat to walk into a room or bar or restaurant and have someone come rushing over to give us a hug and exclaim how great it was to see us. They were very afraid that the cost of the resort would keep old friends away. We explained to them that the resort at this time was in fact the same or less that the Sol and Melia. They were surprised because they were aware this resort was going to be very expensive and elitist.

In the Spa pool area we met Jeony (Melia lobby bar) who is called el gatto, (the cat) he remembered us and greeted us with joy.

William, our concierge for the 1st week remembered immediately upon our arrival. So did Roberto,the bell hop (from the Melia). He remembered my sister as well and asked for her. Roberto came to us the next day to say Eli was waiting for us to arrive and wanted us to go and visit him. He said when we were ready he would bring us to see him at the buffet in the villa section.

The delivery person for the maid supplies arrived and knocked on our door a few days after we arrived and with practically no English, he managed to convey to me that he was bringing a message from his mother, our friend Elsa from the beach grill at the Sol. We did not know the Sol was shut down and were planning to go over and see her. He had a letter from her welcoming us back to Cuba and telling us the Sol was closed and so she would be unable to see us this trip. I was able to respond to her and have him take a letter to her. He is going to school to learn English and will attempt to become a concierge. I do get the impression it is a coveted job. I am therefore surprised that they are not all of the same caliber. (more later)

We met Raymond the gardener near the pool, we remembered him from the Sol.

WE met Dacre, he works in the lobby bar. He was the brand new employee who gave Derek and I the tour of the resort last Feb., 06.

Yasmenony, a student we made friends with at the Sol buffet was working in the kitchen at the buffet. She was very excited to see us and asked for Judy immediately. She is working 4 days at the resort and attends school 3 days. She is not concerned with not having free time. She is loving the resort and is very excited about working there on a permanent basis. The buffet is the only place where there are students working and they are the final year students. She is one of those bubbly happy face staff that you love to run into every day.

SEAFOOD RESTAURANT:

WE enjoyed the restaurant. The setting out on the point was beautiful. There was an outdoor veranda around 3 sides and it was very romantic to walk around and look at the moonlight. There is a gazebo near by with a lit path to it that is also nice to share a moment. It is quite a distance from the main lobby and so it is a good idea to get a ride, if you are dressed and wearing high heals.

The interior is elegant and we found the food and the service to be excellent on both occasions we ate there. We were excited to find Duny (from the Sol) working here and she arranged to be our server and so it was very special. She was a student when we were last at the Sol in Feb, 06 and we enjoyed getting to know her then. She loves working at the resort and is very happy.

We were offered 2 choices of red and 2 of white. Chile and Spanish. I chose Spanish and enjoyed the wine more than I expected. I had lobster and chicken and my only complaint was the portions were too much and I hate to waste such good food. They will offer you a taste of the wine and you can choose from the 2 selections. NOTE: they had proper stoppers fro the wine and the champagne. A small thing, but there were so many small things, they add up to a luxury resort with all of the little amenities we never expect to find in Cuba.

MISCELLANEOUS.

There were small spoons available at the bar and in all of the restaurants. I have always had a problem finding them.

Bicycles were new and had all of their parts and were comfortable. My butt did not care for the type of seat and I did walk a bit funny for a few days but we enjoyed our bike ride.

I have the Italian restaurant review as well as the Gourmet restaurant and I will get to them soon. Until then, so long.

Geri

Pre-Opening Tour of Ensenachos Resort - Feb 2006

Touring of the facilities while staying at Melia CSM.

Well, here we go. Just so you know, I took notes throughout our visit, so hopefully I’ll get this right.

I’ll try to divide things into chunks the Forum software will find digestible…

INTRODUCTION


Some general impressions first.

This place is VERY impressive. Lush even. It’s by far the most luxurious hotel we’ve seen in Cuba. In a very different, tropical, way it ranks up there with our railway hotels and places like the Hotel Normandy in Paris I think. But as you’ll see, I think the level of service may actually be higher.

The only question re. this hotel will be what the pricing will look like when all is up and running, and whether at the price charged (inevitably higher than the ‘club’ style resorts we’re used to) will the place be able to reach reasonable occupancy levels?

At the moment the Ensenachos is being marketed strictly as an Occidentales hotel, with the Royal Hideaway relationship to start at the official opening in June.

Whilst we were there were only a couple of dozen guests. Only the ‘standard’ (but what a standard!) rooms area was open. The suites and bungalows bits won’t be ready for a while yet. I haven’t said anything about them as everything we have is drawn not from our tour but from the marketing bumpf that’s available.

As you’ll see from the photos, there’s still a bit of finishing work to be done on the main building.

Speaking of the photo, here’s the link to my photoblog’s set for this hotel:

http://flickr.com/ph...57594070015482/

GETTING THERE:

We were encouraged to call over and do a tour and report for the Forum. Our original intention was just to deliver a ‘good luck with the new job’ gift for Ramon, formerly the captain of the international restaurant at the Sol, now playing the same role at the Italian restaurant at the Ensenachos.

We’d also connected with the MD and nurse from the Sol re. Delivering medical supplies for Not Just Tourists and found out they were training medical staff at the new hotel. They had an idea of Ramon’s schedule, and so we decided to give it a whirl.

Jose Carlos called over and the next thing we know we’re in a taxi on the way over.

Sussette met us at the entrance. With her was one of the many (more on this later) concierges, Angel. She introduced us and turned us over the Angel for a couple of hours for our tour.

While we’re on the subject of Jose Carlos, Sussette and Angel I have to editorialize a bit.

Cuban staff is these kinds of positions (tour rep, PR etc.) are always just so much better connected than Canadian resident staff. They know people at other hotels or in other parts of the tourism biz (often having attended language or other schools with them) and are much better situated to get these little ‘not in the book’ tours and arrangements made.


LOBBY:

Amazing. Huge, airy. Marble floors, walls in areas, very lush.

The walk up from where a taxi or bus would drop you up will certainly make an impression. 20-30 metres long, 10 wide and all marble every step of the way.

The lobby itself is huge with chandeliers and wood-clad pillars and more, much more, marble.

Seating areas scattered about.

There’s a separate reception desk area that’s got a/c and more staff than most resorts twice its size. Again, lush and marble are the two words that come to mind.

The lobby has the entrance to the business centre (which most of us would only use for the internet café) and the conference rooms.

Opposite the business centre and reception desk area are shops (the usual plus the Joyeria, an upscale perfumes/jewelry store) and the lobby bar.

The bar is very nicely appointed, has a jazz quartet and vocalist (you there Dave?) playing each evening. It’s a/c plus a patio overlooking the rear fountains and gardens leading down to the beach walkway (beach itself can’t be seen for the vegetation).. Pool table.

The bar wouldn’t be out of place in a Delta or Sheraton-level hotel here in Canada. Very nice.

Off to one side and facing the rear of the hotel opposite the bar is the buffet restaurant. Designed to maximize the view. Very nice. And lots more marble.

The hotel actually has an auditorium seating 476 with a stage, lighting setup and sound system! All indoors and a/c! With comfy upholstered seating.

LOWER LOBBY:


To get to the lower lobby you can take an elevator or descend some wonderful curving (you guessed it) marble stairs. Perfect for wedding photos or any photos. Grand curving staircase.

On the lower lobby are a nightclub, the Japanese, International, and Italian restaurants, and an a/c room where car rentals, excursions reps, etc. desks are located.

We couldn’t test the restaurants, but the Japanese (also serving Thai) was up to the standard of the rest of the building. The menu was pretty large and there were lots of wine choices. And for the first time wines we’d be able to buy at home were available.

Sushi, Pad Thai, grill table standards all on the menu. Chopsticks on the place settings, very upscale appointments, little moat to be waked over as you enter.

The Italian has the same quality of appointments, plus this place has the added advantage of having Ramon running it. Pretty much a guarantee it’ll be great. I’d have more to say about the menu etc. here but we spent our time there catching up with Ramone as he was in the middle of a staff meeting when we walked-in.

When complete the hotel will have 9 restaurants.

There’s also an a/c library with seating for tour group briefings seating up to 98 people.

Out the back is a huge fountain (water running down over rocks into a pool) and walkways towards the beach.

BEACH:

It’s a bit of a trot through mangroves on a wooden walkway, but worth it. Very fine sand, slightly curving waterline. Gradually deepening.

Beach bar (soon grill) as upscale as the rest of the hotel. Washroms. Tables and chairs in sun and shade throughout the day. Furniture aluminium castings rather than plastic.

Standard beach chairs. Just more of them and many more palaypas then you would expect for the size of the hotel.

Over to the left can be the seen the suites area and then further down (with its own beach in a small cove, restaurants building etc.) the bungalows section.

The beach here is sheltered, being not just in a bay/cove, but on the lee side of the Cayos. So there shouldn’t be the wind/water effects the beaches on the windward side of things experience.

SPA/GYM:


The gym is good as the Melia’s, which is very good indeed. But it’s a/c!!!

The spa wasn’t up and running but it didn’t appear as large as the Melia’s.

Large roofed area for Tai Chi etc. with rubberized floor.

Medium-sized pool.

Most extensive medical facilities (waiting room, exam rooms, treatment room) we’ve seen.

ROOMS:

Here’s mebbe the best part: not only re. What is currently in place, but for what the rooms might suggest about the suites and bungalows to come.

Each rooms building has 20 rooms set on two levels in a hollow square. Each courtyard has a small garden and fountain.

But best of all, each also has a desk and computer and a concierge. Yep, a concierge.

One concierge per 20 rooms. They arrange room service (want sushi at 03:00 every day of your vacation? It can be arranged!), book tables for dinner, make excursions arrangements, book scooters or cars…

Plus each building has a maintenance person who inspects it each day and a complement of two room cleaners. This is amazing level of staffing I think.

The standard room has a foyer. The rooms are very well appointed; about the size of the rooms at the Sol CSM I would say. Note quite as large as at the Melia, but a much higher grade of finish.

The bath has a glass shower stall a Jacuzzi tub, large counter area, and a separate room for the toilet. Overall, quite the largest we have seen in Cuba. Bigger than some hotel rooms we’ve stayed in!

Glass door out to a good-sized balcony (the room we looked at was a corner, so a view on two sides, other rooms one view, but as large) with a table and chairs.

Best feature from Geri’s perspective was the walk-in closet.

Best seems like such an inadequate word… B i g  G r i n

The entertainment centre in a cabinet, has a DVD player, a nice touch I thought.

Though not up there with the walk-in closet, of course!

Marble, marble, marble.

ACCESSIBILITY:

There’s an elevator in the lobby building and all other buildings and facilities are wheelchair accessible.

ACTIVATION:

Overall the hotel is taking a much lower-key approach than we’re used to at ‘club’ style resorts. There will be staff available if you want them for things like tennis or weight room instruction or assistance, but no one wandering around exhorting you on a bullhorn to come play volleyball or whatever.

Were we to stay here I think the only thing about this new approach that would cause me concern is that I wouldn’t have much fun daydreaming about being alone in a room full of activation staff…just me and my cattleprod… C l a p p i n g

There are tennis courts and the usual play areas.

GROUNDS:

They have clearly worked hard to maintain as much of the mature vegetation as possible. Grown trees, mangroves etc. and in place. I would say very little planting is required.

Lots of water features throughout. All of high construction quality. Most weren’t full and operating when were there.

STAFF:

Staff makes or breaks any hotel/resort. The Ensenanchos has ‘cheated’ a bit by bringing in so many of the experienced staff from the Melia and the Sol CSM that it’s hard to imagine any problems in this regard.

I’ve mentioned Ramon above. Frankly we personally are lost with his decision to make the move over from the Sol. It’s unlikely we’ll ever be able to spend the kind of money the Ensenachos will be costing and he really made the Fontanella at the Sol. S a d

‘Course, with Nail taking over it looks like we’ll be more than OK, but I’d rather have BOTH of them rather than lose one. Sigh. Why can’t people realize they’re obligated to organize their lives to meet MY needs? k i n g / q u e e n

Other familiar staff were Sussette from the Sol (public relations), Marelis (ex-Sol reception, now she’s a building concierge), her partner Yoany who’s ex-Melia lobby bar and now the head server at the Ensenachos lobby bar (great margaritas!), William (ex-Sol bellhop) now a greeter/bellhop at the end of that long marble walkway into the lobby, Katia, (ex-Sol public relations) is now a concierge…and those were just the folks in sight while we were there that we recognized. There are probably many more we didn’t run into or who were off that day.

And as the other sections of the hotel open no doubt there will be some further movement of experienced staff over.

Even the new staff are making a serious contribution. Angel, our guide and one of the (many!) concierges, is working his first hotel job. Very enthusiastic and knowledgeable.

PRESENT & FUTURE:

Right now the hotel is still under construction. Even in the open areas there is work being done.

TMR is flying in from Montreal and Signature from Toronto and Ottawa.

There were only about 25 guests there when we visited, but the portion of the hotel that is open is fully staffed. We were told this is so all the bugs can be worked out before it starts to fill after the official opening.

So at the moment a party of six would be outnumbered by the serving staff in either of the a la carte restaurants that are open. And if all the guests arrived at the same there would have been one bellhop for every two bags! P a r t y   H a t

So now might be the time to go as it will likely (sigh) increase in price once it starts to fill.

By all accounts the Royal Hideaway in Mexico (the only other such hotel) is an amazingly luxurious hotel with great food and amazing levels of personal service.

I can’t see any reason why the Ensenachos won’t get there too; in fact given what we know of the staff who’ve gone over (we shall miss each and every one), it might surpass the original.

I guess our only sour note is the cost of the place. It seems very unlikely Geri and I will ever get there unless they have some serious deep discounts in order to establish the place this summer and next winter.

On the one hand, for the sake of Cuba and particularly of the staff there now I hope it flies as they clearly expect it to.

On the other, Cuba’s not a destination like St. Maarten or Negril of Barbados; a place where high prices and such are expected. You have to wonder if it can be successfully marketed when guests are going to be expected to pay something like 4-5 grand per week…

Guess we’ll see, but in the meantime we’re certainly keeping our eyes open for intro pricing and/or selloffs as staying at the Ensenachos would clearly be unlike any prior Cuban (or other, come to think of it) hotel experience we’ve ever had.

Derek

Havana for the 50th!

Here's a short, quick and dirty review...

Walked about all day, every day. The work being done to restore the old city is quite spectacular, the innovative funding interesting, the fact that it almost appears as though the City Historian is running the entire city is pretty entertaining (to someone who trained as an historian and wore the old 'Earn Big Money, Become a Historian' t-shirt with enthusiasm and bitterness). :-)

NEW YEAR'S EVE - 50th Anniversary of the Revolution:

New Year's was fun. The usual walk, then a fairly sedate dinner and watching the fireworks from near the harbour.

On the way home we had to run the gauntlet of residents throwing buckets on water on everyone passing beneath on the narrow street. Got well soaked.

Much fun. Cuban tradition.

More fun was getting back up to our apt. and out on the balcony and doing the same to many, many people for several hours, glass of rum in hand (wine in Geri's case and she preferred large squeezable water bottles, more accurate than my bucket). Got to know our neighbours all around and across as we'd co-operate in pointing out where people were hiding.

At one point some tourist spoilsports got two cops to try and convoy them through. HA! I'm thinking either the cops were just going through the motions or thought it would be funny to say to them "Yeah, sure, we can get you through, just follow us and make sure you walk down the centre of the street in plain view".

50th anniversary celebrations very muted. Anything too exciting would have been seen as inappropriate as the hurricane recovery process is far from complete.

= = = = = = = = = = =

Camera may have gotten toasted in my soaking, but too much fun not to have a price; and besides, it's time for an upgrade anyway. :-)

Long as the memory cards weren't toasted I mean. Roughly 1300 photos.

Spent a day at the central cemetary. Great fun.

One surprise in all the fun: the food is far, far far better than expected.

Many fine little restaurants, if not exactly attractive decor-wise, have very good food. And the best and cheapest are not the privately-run ones but the co-ops and some of the state-owned spots. Very pleasant surprise and part of the City Historian's plan for the place.

Had the best paella of my life (geri gave it a rave too and she has spent much time in Spain) and some fries and great BBQ chicken on a rickety crumbling balcony overlooking the Malecon in a small state-owned restaurant in n otherwise abandoned building (for good reasons abandoned).

With three fine Cuban beers it might have cost 11Pesos (15CAD???) for the two of us to dine.

We drove around and thru Vedado and Playa/Miramar for a quick tour and to have lunch at a paladar near the Russian embassy, but spent almost all of our time in the old city. And still feel like another couple of days would have helped.

The last time we popped into Havana for a couple of days we stayed in Miramar. Fun but not the walking/poking around kind of spot Old Havana is. Among other things, a long walk between beers!

27-29 and once or twice some cloud in the early part of the day. Not much wind makes it off the ocean and into the streets, so a little sweaty on occasion, requiring us to retire into the shade for a cold beverage now and then.

= = = = = = = = = = =

Re. where we stayed,
We would recommend it, and highly, but on the understanding that it's not a hotel and one shouldn't expect hotel-level appliances and such. We like this kind of travel a lot for our non- 'lie-down-and-read-on-the-beach-for-two-weeks-then-get-up-and-go-home' vacations. But we've recommended places we loved for people who are more into hotels and they've not enjoyed the experience. We find it's fun to interact a bit with your host, get at least a glimpse into how they live. Plus the location is almost by definition in a residential rather than commercial/touristy area, and that helps too.

And, perhaps most importantly, the much lower cost associated with this mode of accommodation makes it possible for us to travel more than we would if we stayed in even the cheapest hotel - and we get a much higher standard of accommodation for our money than we would at those cheap hotels.

We stayed in the home of a Cuban man, Juan. His casa particulare (CP) is called Juan and Maragarita's (Margarita died last April unfortunately). It's been in operation for a few years and is one of only 10 (of hundreds) that are recommended by our bible, the Lonely Planet.

I'll leave it to Geri to describe it, but basically it was exceptionally clean, fairly basic but with everything you might want except cooking facilities. It's at the top of Obispo, less than 50m from the Floridita. Not wheelchair-accessible (I'll leave it to Geri to describe just how true that statement is!). The lower of two floors, Juan lives up top, we rented to lower floor, so really it was like having our own apartment.

In case anyone is leaving soon for Havana and wants to book with Juan, his number is 867-9592. He speaks excellent English (went to uni in the US and returned to Cuba in 1959). Tell him Geri and Derek sent you...


You can also book his place through a website, but a call will cost you less than what he has to pay to the website owner for each day you stay with him. And, frankly, while we loved Juan and Juan's place, the website was not so handy. It was OK for the booking (though we were shocked at how much of what we were paying Juan was going to the website manager), but the website folks themselves were supposed to pick me up at the airport when I arrived with Geri's daughter Vicki at midnight. By 01:30 we were in a cab on our own and headed into the city. So far not even an e-mail from them about this.

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On restaurants and such,
Again we relied on the Lonely Planet. Geri and I will chat today and sort out who reviews what and start that process today. Luckily we had little snow fall while we gone and so I don't need to spend the weekend shoveling.

Restaurants-wise we stuck pretty closely to the places suggested in the Lonely Planet. The one major exception was New Year's Eve, when most places were closed, at least to us (the Spanish regional/ethnic association restaurants were open, but only to members) so we paid a fair bit for a meal that was rather unexceptional at the Cafe Europe on Obispo.

So these are just highlights. Assume the food to be good and the prices towards the inexpensive end of the spectrum if I say nothing in particular.

The best spot, I think, was what used to be the Rancho Coquito, now called Malecon 107 (which is also the address). GREAT paella, and very good eveything else, all at very, very reasonable prices. We ate on a balcony overlooking the Malecon. Our only complaint: it's only open for dinner, not lunch.

We also enjoyed several of the restaurants in the 'clubs' operated by associations of people descended from various Spanish region (Catelonia, Canaria, Adaluscia etc.).

The Cafe Prado at the bottom of the Prado on the west side, in a triangular building, introduced us to pin (pineapple) daquiris. Many of them. Yum! Reasonably good food too, and very large portions.

The O-Reilly Cafe on (you guessed it) O'Reilly had a great house special sandwich. That and a beer cost mebbe $3. Vicki had a burger for $1.35 she liked.

The Cafe Santo Domingo was good for breakfast, OK for lunch and has a GREAT bakery downstairs for bread and pastries and such. It's on Obispo across from the newish U of Havana building a block or two from Plaza de Armas.

The Cafeteria Torre la Vega (114 Obrapia) was very nice. We ate at one of the tables across the street in the park. Three meals with six beer for less than $20.

The Oasis in the Arabe Cultural Centre building gets bad reviews from the bible, but upstairs in the centre proper is a nice little restaurant. Kinda blends North African and Cuban. Not reviewed in the Lonely Planet, but quite good for lunch.

Bars?
I thought you'd never ask! The rooftop bar on the Hotel Raquel had great views but the beer was something silly...$5 I think. We stayed for one, enjoyed the view and decamped.

Ditto the roof on the Hotel Ingeterra, only the views around the architectural features of the roof are a little hard on the neck. Nice close-up view of some of the Teatro Grande though.

At the other end of the spectrum were a lot of places out of the touristy bits where the beer was at most $1.25. We even found a spot on the east side of the Museo de la Revolucion (almost directly across from the laundry van on display at the back of the museum) with $1.15 beer while Vicki and I were waiting for Geri to arrive. No name, pink with several openings onto the sidewalk. Friendly staff and regulars. Beats paying four times that over in the lobby of the Sevilla, plus you'll see no one but Cubans and the odd lost and thirsty tourist with a bit of a sense of adventure. Same could be said for many of the places where we would try and stop for a beer or a coffee or a quick lunch. The decor wasn't always what we might be used to or comfortable with at home, but it was always fun and with one, blessedly brief exception (apparently even Cuban men occasionally drink too much), we had a fine time with the regulars.

The Bar Monseratte had GREAT music in a town where great music is pretty much the standard, if that makes sense. $1.25 beer too!!!

Outside of Centro and Habana Vieja, the only place we ate at was a paladar called La Fontana, very close to the Russian embassy complex. Very nice food but it came in at something like $30-40 per person. Very, very nice food I should say. Popular with the Canadian embassy staff. This was the only paladar we ate at.

I must say that overall I was very pleasantly surprised with the quality of the food where we ate.

The only disappointment: Los Nardos (across from the Capitalino) is now closed.

Photos can be viewed at: http://www.flickr.com/photos/dblackadder/s...57612055539425/