On May Day I headed into Marseille on my own for the festivities.
Geri and Vicki stayed 'home' to do whatever it was that they did. I
was up and out early.
Aix a lot different at 0600. Broken glass, pools of urine and folks
who clearly have had a long night staggering about in small numbers
while the city workers start the clean-up. Ain't tourist towns
grand?
Some nice views from the train but photos impossible.
The rail station alone was a bit of fun. Some nice views, though not
as nice as they would have been before the taller apartment buildings
obscured the line of sight to the port.
Walked down to and around the Vieux Port for a bit. The port a bit
standard, but fun for what it is. Especially enjoyed the fishers and
their boats. They pull up, dock, you pick out your fish and they
clean it for you on the spot.
There are many more varieties of eatable eels than I thought. Was
tempted by the cockles, but couldn't imagine them making it home is
good shape; plus wasn't sure how to seviche or cook them.
Walking there and then after around, just killing time, much fun.
Happy to go back. Untouristy, kinda gritty and lots of Arabic being
spoken (I never got a chance to use my 5 standard sentences and
assorted nouns), different kinds of shops and restaurants. Worth a
week at some point.
The May Day march itself was fun. A little more chaotic than I am
used to. Less regimentation, more a fun-fest than an organized
event, though it had that aspect too. Had some chats here and there,
took lots of photos, but when they were an hour late in getting
started I decided to head home.
Back in Aix I napped, big surprise.
Next day we saw Vicki off to Corsica. On the way back from the bus
station e checked-in with a restaurant The Bible (Lonely Planet) says
serves real bouillabaisse. We went to make a reservation for Monday
night as (a) Monday is Geri's birthday and (b) it takes a couple of
days to prepare and the restaurant is not likely open Mondays. Turns
out they have stopped serving it. Chatting with the server she
recommended a place in Marseille (Chez Michel, near the Plage
Catalan). The restaurant patrons chimed-in (every occupied table had
something to say).
Needless to say we're having dinner at Chez Grand-mere at some point
this week. If you look you'll see a photo I took of the restaurant
with two senior women at an outside table killing a bottle of red.
:-)
After we retired to our local for a beer and to plan the week. The
result of that was that we established ourselves as regulars and now
get a free beer for every two we buy. And we scheduled Avignon,
Arles and possible Cassis for this week before we head to Paris.
This trip a nasty one for me and my relationship with the French rail
system.
I HATE the Rail Europe website. Clunky and stupid. Best I could
manage for Avignon was to Marseille on a local train and then back
through Aix on a TGV. Took about an hour to get there, but in the
station and looking at printed schedules I realized that we could
have taken a shuttle bus to the TGV station and then the TGV to
Avignon and save 20 minutes. No biggie, but the site should have
told me that (and says it will). Then I couldn't make the machine at
the Aix station print our tickets. The station attendant got a good
laugh out of showing me how simple it really is. And it wasn't over
yet: Geri pointed out that my polo shirt was on inside out.
I popped out into the parking lot and gave the rental car agency
workers who were washing cars something to think about by my taking
off and the putting back on my shirt.
On the way back the post-modern design of TGV stations (all we have
seen this trip anyway) got me and I first entered the offices of the
sales and info staff, despite that 'access interdit' sign and then I
almost broke my face trying to leave the ticket sales area.
Just so you know, the glass panels with the solid white horizontal
stripe are the automatic doors; the panels with the broken lines are
the walls. :-)
On the up side, I finally figured-out that the TGV trains are single
units, other than the locomotives. There are no separate 'cars' in
the way that there are on the trans we're used to at home.
Small compensation for being a goof elsewhere, but the best I can
manage. :-)
Loved the shuttle bus into the city from the TGV station (sorry: many
smaller cities have a 'regular', city-centre train station, then a
TGV station further out of town as the TGVs can't use the older
lines. A regular city bus it took a while to get us to the city
centre but it was an interesting ride plus the bus very high tech.
Look for the photo I took of the screen that tells you where you are
and when the next stop is coming.
Avignon fun, the Papal Palace and the Pont d'Avignon worth seeing.
We had consistently very, very good food. And at dinner a wine (AOC
Ventoux) we have never seen or tasted before and we quite
enthralled with. The white. Way fab.
The market, Les Halles, was also fun. For those who have been to the
st. Lawrence Market in Toronto imagine something just bumped-up a bit
and with bars that allow you to pay for a glass of wine and wander
around doing your shopping with it. Lots of tripe and organ meats.
Yum.
The papal palace quite the old pile. The Pont d'Avignon a must I
guess, but not too spectac. Geri danced on it but mostly because of
the wind.
Which was very impressive. The Mistral
was blowing. 80Km steady with gusts over 100. Clear blue skies.
Hell to walk against and I almost felt sorry for some of the smaller
kids. Very impressive, glad we were there for it, but it did lead us
to think that a day and a half was enough and we headed home to much
warmer weather (25) and virtually no wind, just as much sun.
Changing our tickets meant I now have a E14 credit to my account with
SNCF, reason enough to return, no? :-)
Lots of white kepis in Avignon. The Legion must have a base nearby.
GREAT lunch at Brasserie La Conservatoire. Dinner and a half of
Vendoux at Le Cerveau du Theatre. Both get raves.
The Hotel Boquier cheap (E60), cheerful (GREAT staff), clean and
simple and very well situated. Breakfast was over-priced though.
Photos posted.
Back in Aix, we did some shopping for the Big Day tomorrow and then
popped into our local. Got a bit of a show when some of the locals
started acting up and had ice water poured on them, then everybody
just settled back in. Couldn't understand some of the (I think)
insults going back and forth, all my questions got us for all sides
involved was “they're crazy”.
Entertaining and confirmation that Geri knows how to pick a bar. :-)
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