Wednesday, April 23, 2014

More Aix Nonsense


Yesterday a rainy day. There are worse things.

We spent an hour or more at the market buying veg and such. Much fun tasting, to the point where I don't think we've bought a lunch here since our arrival.

Or a dinner either, since the market makes cooking took tempting. Four evenings now spent cooking, drinking wine and eating. Then flopping with a glass and a book or catching-up on photos or doing laundry while listening to podcasts. Kinda like having a cottage in southern France rather than on Lake Simcoe. :-)

A great way to spend time on a rainy day is on the little electric buses that work the old part of town. E0.50 means you can get on any bus within an hour. For a day's worth of access to any bus in the regional system you pay E1. What we would consider the regional municipality is well-served by buses.

There are three routes for the electric buses. You can get on and off anywhere, though the connections to the rest of the transit system are fixed stops like what we're used to. We did the last route today. The bus a bit hot (we found it so anyway, though we kept seeing people in jackets and wearing toques) as the day was about perfect but after we got off to stay, around 11, we saw that the sides of the buses had been taken off. Would be fab on a reasonably warm day.

They are a little unpredictable as the route changes now and then if there's a delivery vehicle etc. in the way. Streets not large enough for passing even for this little things and so its not unusual for it to start down a street, come across another vehicle and then back up, go looking for another route. This isn't a tourist bus either, but the way people get around the older bits of the city.

The drivers friendly. Clearly a lot of the passengers are regulars; everyone gets caught up on everyone's news. Waste workers flag the bus over for a quick exchange of news with the driver (I suspect a bit of chatting-up is going on as well :-) ). As with most city workers we have seen, the drivers women. You can ride up front with the driver if you went to school with them or are particularly old it seems. :-)

Geri found us our local. Bar PTT on Place de Richlme. Corsican owner, though he is, as most are here, a support of Marseile Olympique. Tiny, might hold 12, plus four tables out front. Corsican beers. Grossly over-salted heavily roasted yummy peanuts in a bucket on the bar (dip your plate as needed). Floor covered in buts despite the prominent no-smoking sign. Friendly bar tender. Regulars. I could live here. There. I could live there. :-)

New drink, very local and similar to the lemonade-and-beer shandy in Barcelona: a moncaco. 3 parts lemonade, 1 part grenadine, 3 parts blonde (lager) beer. Corsican beers dandy. Pietre Rossa a bit odd. Brewed with cherries added. Surprising pleasant when it's hot out. Surprised I liked it. But then was surprised I liked orange juic and beer in Costa Rica, so I shouldn't be.

The electric bus (Diabloline) took us through an upscale residential bit of the old city. Who-ha. Buried in it was a cafe that uses what is likely a 16th century fountain to keep a large supply of rose cool and ready to drink. We tried to find it this afternoon. No luck. But the search will continue...

The quality of public services here is quite astounding. Daily garbage pickup in urban areas. Street cleaners (the place is immaculate) all over the place.

Some noticeable investment in same too. Look closely at what seem to be street corner garbage cans and watch a bit and you'll see a city worker come by, bend over, stick a key in the pavement and a 2m by 2.5 m by 2m segment of the pavement with the bins on top rises up. Under those two bins (garbage and recycling) is a huge elevator-like box. It's emptied automatically by the truck the city worker is driving and 2 minutes later it disappears back into the pavement. Very impressive. As are the street cleaning machines of several different sizes that wander the old town and the street cleaners with brooms who work the touristy bits.

The BIG NEWS: Donkey sausages. Lovely. Now we have something to bring home as gifts for all. :-)

Geri found, of all things, a Quebecois bakery. Best bread we've had yet, and that's saying something.

Am a little interested in the erosion of the dividing line between patisseries and boulangeries. Is that a regional thing or something recent that I am just noticing?

Not so great are some of th beers (though not the Corsicans on offer at our local). Seems churlish (not to mention a bit late and useless) to complain when the brewery has been going since 1128, but Grimhagen needs to roast its hops for an additional hour or 2,000.

Brand of scooter I haven't seen before was spotted today. Called a 'Business'. While the Dink and dinkiness generally are a barometer of the ideological struggle, the People's scooter was a direct branded attack on corporate hegemony. This would seem to be a direct response. It may be that as the Dink doesn't disappear but moves to the sidelines of history, the People's versus Business struggle for scooter supremacy will or has become the primary contradiction of our epoch. But the objective reality is such that the supporters of both, the lackies of corporate capitalism and authoritarian capitalism, will, through an upright application of thought reform (perhaps in the form of a Scooter Antis Campaign) and vigorous struggle sessions, be exposed as capitalist roaders. Literally.

On a more mundane level, spring has truely sprung here and pollen is visible everywhere.

New photos posted. Am trying to start new albums (mostly) when posting rather than adding to existing.

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